Big Jowls

[Wiebke]

What has happened with his neck?

I did the same treatment with my Reggie yesterday and he had no issue. The treatment was applied maybe 2 hours ago, I put him back in his cage and came back to his neck looking like it’s wet. I know for a fact he can’t reach that area with his mouth, so what is happening?

There’s quite a lot of medicine in one pipette as i’ve found, but my Reggie didn’t have any issue with his hair.
Could the fact Hank has smooth hair have something to do with it.

It’s not a reaction because he got a treatment last week is it?

Hi

This look is normal after an ivermectin application. It is going to be slowly spread over the body and work its way into the body over the coming two days through natural grooming. Be patient and do not touch the 'wet' areas as that if going to be weight-adjusted ivermectin that is not going to be absorbed because it is ending up on your hands. Please do not bathe and allow the ivermectin to do its job.

Please take a deep breath and be patient. The discomfort is lasting for about 2-3 days after an application because it has to get into the skin and the blood circulation and then it has to be absorbed by the mites. This is not an instant process. You will also notice a gradual increase of the itchiness during the second week before the next round of application but it should hopefully get better after about 3 days after the second round. Ideally a third round will take care of any stragglers to prevent a return but if the mites persist, a fourth round may be needed.

Can you please clarify: Are you dealing with hay mites (whose little black egg cases fixed to hairs are what is visible), crawling pale things (lice) or invisible mange mites.

If you are dealing with hay mites all over the body, I would recommend to give your piggy an all body short haircut in a week or so once the ivermectin has been fully absorbed and done its work. This will remove the majority of egg cases stuck to the hairs which cannot then emerge as more mites that need killing in the coming rounds. This simple measure really cuts down the job without costing you anything and the hair will in due time grow back to its genetically determined length. Hay mites are a different story to mange mites who burrow their eggs into the skin where they cannot be reached by you.

 

[piggl]

Hi

This look is normal after an ivermectin application. It is going to be slowly spread over the body and work its way into the body over the coming two days through natural grooming. Be patient and do not touch the 'wet' areas as that if going to be weight-adjusted ivermectin that is not going to be absorbed because it is ending up on your hands. Please do not bathe and allow the ivermectin to do its job.

Please take a deep breath and be patient. The discomfort is lasting for about 2-3 days after an application because it has to get into the skin and the blood circulation and then it has to be absorbed by the mites. This is not an instant process. You will also notice a gradual increase of the itchiness during the second week before the next round of application but it should hopefully get better after about 3 days after the second round. Ideally a third round will take care of any stragglers to prevent a return but if the mites persist, a fourth round may be needed.

Can you please clarify: Are you dealing with hay mites (whose little black egg cases fixed to hairs are what is visible), crawling pale things (lice) or invisible mange mites.

If you are dealing with hay mites, I would recommend to give a long-haired piggy an all body short haircut in a week or so once the ivermectin has been fully absorbed and done its work. This will remove the majority of egg cases stuck to the hairs which cannot then emerge as more mites that need killing. This simple measure really cuts down the job without costing you anything and the hair will in due time grow back - probably just in time for a much needed summer haircut.

They are hay mites.

Thanks for the reassurance on the 'wet' area, I was panicking incase he had somehow got to it or I had applied it incorrectly.
So I should not bathe him after a few days? What about if I washed him like next Tuesday, the day before he gets his next treatment.

How do the egg casing (the black bits) get off him then? He doesn't have long hair, if I were to cut him I would have to shave him which I know you aren't supposed to do. I guess I could cut the hair so its really short, but I don't know if that is recommended. For an idea of his hair, it is flat to his body but if I hold it in my fingers from his body to me its about 2ish inches long, the majority of casings are halfway along the hair so I could maybe cut it halfway. Sorry if that is a silly question.

He is also not itchy, like at all. I have been watching him, but if he did not have the big neck (which caused me to take him to the vets), I would never have known he had mites as he acted completely normal.

 

[Wiebke]

They are hay mites.

Thanks for the reassurance on the 'wet' area, I was panicking incase he had somehow got to it or I had applied it incorrectly.
So I should not bathe him after a few days? What about if I washed him like next Tuesday, the day before he gets his next treatment.

How do the egg casing (the black bits) get off him then? He doesn't have long hair, if I were to cut him I would have to shave him which I know you aren't supposed to do. I guess I could cut the hair so its really short, but I don't know if that is recommended. For an idea of his hair, it is flat to his body but if I hold it in my fingers from his body to me its about 2ish inches long, the majority of casings are halfway along the hair so I could maybe cut it halfway. Sorry if that is a silly question.

He is also not itchy, like at all. I have been watching him, but if he did not have the big neck (which caused me to take him to the vets), I would never have known he had mites as he acted completely normal.

Hi

The empty egg cases usually fall off eventually. I would recommend to cut even short hair shorter; even if it is with scissors. It is more effective than bathing, which cannot remove all egg cases because you are taking future mites out of the equation before they can come into play and there is a lot less hair for the mites to fix any new eggs on.
It's unsightly but it is always much more effective to remove mechanically what is possible before any chemical/medical treatment - that is why face masks and hand washing were surprisingly effect Covid measures as well. Especially when you are dealing with a more advanced outbreak.

 

[piggl]

Hi

The empty egg cases usually fall off eventually. I would recommend to cut even short hair shorter; even if it is with scissors. It is more effective than bathing, which cannot remove all egg cases because you are taking future mites out of the equation before they can come into play and there is a lot less hair for the mites to fix any new eggs on.
It's unsightly but it is always much more effective to remove mechanically what is possible before any chemical/medical treatment - that is why face masks and hand washing were surprisingly effect Covid measures as well. Especially when you are dealing with a more advanced outbreak.

Okay, great! I'll have to contact the rescue, fingers crossed they are happy for me to cut it for his health.
If i am to do so, when should I wait till to do it?

 

[Wiebke]

Okay, great! I'll have to contact the rescue, fingers crossed they are happy for me to cut it for his health.
If i am to do so, when should I wait till to do it?

As he has had his first application already, you need to wait until it is fully absorbed and the hair is back to looking normal again but ideally do it before the second week when the newly emerged mites start making themselves felt.

The shorter hair will also allow you to spot any developments and keep on top of any eggs. In my own experience with bathing piggies, a haircut is less stressful for them than a bath. It is a different story for any newly arrived filthy rescue intakes from a neglect situation that are riddled with skin parasites and/or fungal. You are not dealing with that.

 

[Piggies&buns]

Hi, just looking for some advice.

Poor hank is riddled with mites, they’re all over him. He’s had his first proper treatment tonight. Could I give him a bath, say Friday evening? I’ll change all his bedding so he goes into a fresh cage aswell.

What has happened with his neck?

I did the same treatment with my Reggie yesterday and he had no issue. The treatment was applied maybe 2 hours ago, I put him back in his cage and came back to his neck looking like it’s wet. I know for a fact he can’t reach that area with his mouth, so what is happening?

There’s quite a lot of medicine in one pipette as i’ve found, but my Reggie didn’t have any issue with his hair.
Could the fact Hank has smooth hair have something to do with it.

It’s not a reaction because he got a treatment last week is it?

I see that has replied to you Piggl. I hope her reply has helped you

The last time I treated for mites was with my Rainbow bridge rabbit, Patch. It is very normal for the hair to look wet. Imagine how it looked on a rabbit whose coat is very different to piggies! He looked a mess for days after treatment!
As I think we said earlier in the thread, you certainly don’t need to bath him. Change the bedding in a few days time.

 

[piggl]

I see that has replied to you Piggl. I hope her reply has helped you

The last time I treated for mites was with my Rainbow bridge rabbit, Patch. It is very normal for the hair to look wet. Imagine how it looked on a rabbit whose coat is very different to piggies! He looked a mess for days after treatment!
As I think we said earlier in the thread, you certainly don’t need to bath him. Change the bedding in a few days time.

I know, sorry for asking again but he’s absolutely riddled with them and I don’t know how it will clear without some removal of the infestation.

I’ve spoken to the lady from the rescue and she doesn’t want me to cut the hair, so I don’t know what to do. No baths, no hair cuts, how do the mites get off of him?

 

[furryfriends (TEAS)]

I know, sorry for asking again but he’s absolutely riddled with them and I don’t know how it will clear without some removal of the infestation.

I’ve spoken to the lady from the rescue and she doesn’t want me to cut the hair, so I don’t know what to do. No baths, no hair cuts, how do the mites get off of him?

Sorry, why can't you cut the hair? Are you fostering the guinea pig, or is he yours? I would definitely cut the hair back!

 

[piggl]

Sorry, why can't you cut the hair? Are you fostering the guinea pig, or is he yours? I would definitely cut the hair back!

I adopted him last Thursday after an initial bonding session at the rescue. Unfortunately their bond failed the first night, but I took him to the vets and found he was covered in mites.

I’m only looking after him while he gets treated, which is why I asked permission from the rescue as he is still technically their pig, as after treatment he will have to be re-surrendered.

 

[furryfriends (TEAS)]

I hope the rescue are covering the cost of his treatment, especially as they rehomed a guinea pig with mites. Surely they should be dealing with this! This really isn't fair on you, especially as they are dictating how it should be dealt with x

 

[piggl]

I hope the rescue are covering the cost of his treatment, especially as they rehomed a guinea pig with mites. Surely they should be dealing with this! This really isn't fair on you, especially as they are dictating how it should be dealt with x

They aren’t covering the cost, but in fairness I haven’t asked.

I was the one who offered to treat him, as my piggie has to be treated as well and I wouldn’t be comfortable trying to bond him again until after atleast 2 treatments. I’m happy to look after him but not sure what to do if I can’t cut his hair.

 

[Piggies&buns]

Did they say they won’t have him back until he is treated? Or could you return him now before his treatment is complete?

Debbie is absolutely right - they know the bond has failed and you can’t keep him so it should be on them to deal with it or at least cover the costs

 

[piggl]

Did they say they won’t have him back until he is treated? Or could you return him now before his treatment is complete?

Debbie is absolutely right - they know the bond has failed and you can’t keep him so it should be on them to deal with it or at least cover the costs

They will happily take him back, I just feel bad giving him back when hes sick.

 

[piggieminder]

It's up to them to treat him, especially as they won't let you cut the hair. If you are finding it is fuelling your anxiety I would return him now, it's not fair on you.

 

[piggl]

It's up to them to treat him, especially as they won't let you cut the hair. If you are finding it is fuelling your anxiety I would return him now, it's not fair on you.

No its okay really, I was the one who offered and is happy to treat him. I just feel a bit out of my depths haha

 

[Piggies&buns]

If you don’t want to give him back yet and they won’t let you cut his hair, then all you can do is complete the rest of his treatments, disinfect the cage and return him at the end of it …whether he is mite and egg free or not…

 

[piggl]

Hi guys, i’m doing my first big clean today.

I have a question. Both boys have a wooden item that’s there specifically for chewing, I know all items are meant to be washed down but can I wash these if they are to be ingested?
Can the mites be on the wooden things?

If I really have to i’ll just throw them away, I would rather be safe than sorry.

 

[Piggies&buns]

Hi guys, i’m doing my first big clean today.

I have a question. Both boys have a wooden item that’s there specifically for chewing, I know all items are meant to be washed down but can I wash these if they are to be ingested?
Can the mites be on the wooden things?

If I really have to i’ll just throw them away, I would rather be safe than sorry.

Wooden items can be soaked in a bucket with diluted F10, left to dry and then given back to them.
F10 is the best thing to clean the cage with as it kills everything

 

[piggl]

Wooden items can be soaked in a bucket with diluted F10, left to dry and then given back to them.
F10 is the best thing to clean the cage with as it kills everything

Even a willow tunnel, only used for chewing and ingesting?

I don’t have f10 right now, it’s coming monday. So i’m going to wash down the items with warm soapy water, and leave them out until I get the f10.

Is soaking them the best way to do it? Instead of diluting the f10 then wiping down objects.

 

[Piggies&buns]

Even a willow tunnel, only used for chewing and ingesting?

I don’t have f10 right now, it’s coming monday. So i’m going to wash down the items with warm soapy water, and leave them out until I get the f10.

Is soaking them the best way to do it? Instead of diluting the f10 then wiping down objects.

Yes even the willow tunnel.

Warm soapy water possibly wont do much as it isn’t a disinfectant so definitely do an F10 soak on them when you get it and clean the cages again.

You can wipe if you wish - make sure to make the solution a strong one. Personally I like to fully submerge!

 

[piggl]

Yes even the willow tunnel.

Warm soapy water possibly wont do much as it isn’t a disinfectant so definitely do an F10 soak on them when you get it and clean the cages again.

You can wipe if you wish - make sure to make the solution a strong one. Personally I like to fully submerge!

Okay great, thank you!

 

[Piggies&buns]

Okay great, thank you!

As they are hay mites they are more of an annoyance than anything else but making sure you’re given everything a good clean isn’t a bad move!

I use F10 to do a deep clean every 6/8 weeks or so. I spray the inside of the hutches.

 

[piggl]

As they are hay mites they are more of an annoyance than anything else but making sure you’re given everything a good clean isn’t a bad move!

I use F10 to do a deep clean every 6/8 weeks or so. I spray the inside of the hutches.

I’ve never used f10 before, I always use a vinegar and water mixture, but definitely will be moving to f10 from now on!

 

[Betsy]

I always use F10. The vet said to me the cheaper disinfectants weren't much good and that F10 was the way to go. I use the weakest dilution for general cleaning and a stronger one for a deep clean.

 

[Piggies&buns]

I’ve never used f10 before, I always use a vinegar and water mixture, but definitely will be moving to f10 from now on!

It’s good stuff - a little goes a long way. A bottle of concentrate has lasted me a year so far!
I buy the concentrate and make a little up into a 1 litre spray bottle at general use dilution and a 1 litre at a stronger dilution for deep clean. It lasts six months once made up in a spray bottle

 

[piggl]

It’s good stuff - a little goes a long way. A bottle of concentrate has lasted me a year so far!
I buy the concentrate and make a little up into a 1 litre spray bottle at general use dilution and a 1 litre at a stronger dilution for deep clean. It lasts six months once made up in a spray bottle

I had a look at hanks back before putting him in his clean cage. His back looks good but his back legs/“hips” were/are absolutely riddled. I decided to do a bit of a cut, but if I wanted to get rid of them I would have to shave him.
Will these go away? Or just continue to grow and lay eggs on him.

I also unfortunately found a very dirty grease gland under all his hair. I was completely unaware of the condition of this, but it needed to be cut down a lot, as it was caked with grease and dirt.
I think he needs a clean, I now have gorgeous guineas boar shampoo but should I get coconut oil aswell?
Will I need to take any precautions because of his mites? Can I shampoo his whole back half or will that affect his recovery.

 

[Piggies&buns]

I had a look at hanks back before putting him in his clean cage. His back looks good but his back legs/“hips” were/are absolutely riddled. I decided to do a bit of a cut, but if I wanted to get rid of them I would have to shave him.
Will these go away? Or just continue to grow and lay eggs on him.

I also unfortunately found a very dirty grease gland under all his hair. I was completely unaware of the condition of this, but it needed to be cut down a lot, as it was caked with grease and dirt.
I think he needs a clean, I now have gorgeous guineas boar shampoo but should I get coconut oil aswell?
Will I need to take any precautions because of his mites? Can I shampoo his whole back half or will that affect his recovery.

They are egg casings. The egg casings will remain (whether they are empty casings or not) until they are removed (by cutting his hair). Once the mite hatches from the egg it is killed by the next treatment. No more eggs will be laid when there are no more mites left. This is why we say three treatments (if a few mites remain after treatment two then it can start off the whole thing again).
Cutting the hair off means those casings which do still contain mites won’t even get a chance to hatch. As they won’t let you cut it, you’ve got to wait for them all to hatch and wait for the mites to be killed by the treatment.

Youre in a catch-22 with the grease gland because you don’t really want to bathe him while he is having mite treatment.
If the grease gland really cannot wait then you have to leave the bath far enough away from the treatment so as to not render the treatment useless.
Can the greasy hair not wait until he is finished treatment?
Gorgeous Guinea shampoo alone will not deal with grease. You’ll have to try coconut oil as well. It’ll really have to be left to soften the grease up and it may take several attempts if it is that bad

 

[piggl]

They are egg casings. The egg casings will remain (whether they are empty casings or not) until they are removed (by cutting his hair). Once the mite hatches from the egg it is killed by the next treatment. No more eggs will be laid when there are no more mites left. This is why we say three treatments (if a few mites remain after treatment two then it can start off the whole thing again).
Cutting the hair off means those casings which do still contain mites won’t even get a chance to hatch. As they won’t let you cut it, you’ve got to wait for them all to hatch and wait for the mites to be killed by the treatment.

Youre in a catch-22 with the grease gland because you don’t really want to bathe him while he is having mite treatment.
If the grease gland really cannot wait then you have to leave the bath far enough away from the treatment so as to not render the treatment useless.
Can the greasy hair not wait until he is finished treatment?
Gorgeous Guinea shampoo alone will not deal with grease. You’ll have to try coconut oil as well. It’ll really have to be left to soften the grease up and it may take several attempts if it is that bad

I will get a picture of it tomorrow, he has already had a stressful day today! This forum will definitely have a better idea of what's going on than I will have, lol.

 

[piggl]

I wonder if maybe I leave the grease gland until probably next Wednesday. That's one week after his treatment, and I will be able to keep it away from his medication site. I was going to leave it until the weekend, which would be nearer two weeks, but I do not know if it is uncomfortable for him.

I have gotten rid of the really gross and almost matter bits of hair, but I would not be surprised if it was still a bit uncomfortable.

I also have one more question, sorry! Will/can I harm my Reggie if I fully treat him even if he doesn't have mites? I felt his neck today and it felt a bit lumpy, but I can not tell if I am overreacting and his neck has always felt like that.
The skin looks normal, he has not shown any signs of being uncomfortable or extra itchy.

If he can get sick from it, what would I be seeing illness wise?

 

[piggieminder]

Reggie will not get sick from the correct dose of Ivermectin whether he has mites or not.