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Unsure of vet advice

hayroque

Junior Guinea Pig
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Our boar Oscar started squealing last Friday while peeing so we got him in at the vets on the Saturday to get checked out, he's 3 years old. They felt no bladder stones so they gave him baytil and meloxicam for suspected cystitis. Fast forward to today, we just had another appointment and he's still peeing blood, and the vet noticed sediment in it so we're going to get him an ultrasound for stones. The one thing I'm unsure about is that they said because it hadn't cleared up, to stop giving him the antibiotic and only carry on with the painkiller. I assumed that antibiotics would have been continued, it's only been a week and I found that he wasn't getting soiled on his rear end anymore by the end of the week which I assumed meant good progress. Either way we'll get him the ultrasound and go from there, but how long are antibiotics usually used to rule out a UTI? His appetite hasn't been affected, and he's still very lively, I've cut out any calcium heavy veggies as a precaution. I will follow the vet's advice I'm just worried in case we miss anything, the answer they gave wasn't expected.
 
Blood in the urine can be indicative of infection, bladder stones, bladder sludge, or even non bacterial (sterile) cystitis. If the vet did a urine sample (you say they noticed sediment in the urine) and it did not show signs of infection then that may be why they decided to stop giving the antibiotics. Do you know when the ultrasound will be carried out to look for stones or bladder sludge?
 
Hi 💖

Just from unfortunately having experience with the urinary issue department, it does not seem off to me to stop antibiotics. Especially if they did a culture. Meloxicam and glucosamine (feline cystease powder sprinkled on cucumber here) as needed for pain and inflammation are our #1 treatment, and occasional antibiotics if those aren't working. Our vet has almost exclusively prescribed SMZ TMP for suspected infections.

Hope that helps, and that he feels better soon, and that you do too. It's not a good feeling to be unsure of vet advice 💖
 
Blood in the urine can be indicative of infection, bladder stones, bladder sludge, or even non bacterial (sterile) cystitis. If the vet did a urine sample (you say they noticed sediment in the urine) and it did not show signs of infection then that may be why they decided to stop giving the antibiotics. Do you know when the ultrasound will be carried out to look for stones or bladder sludge?
He peed on the table at the appointment and after taking it to the other room for a moment the vet said something about normal glucose and high protein so maybe he sampled it there? That makes more sense , the sediment was visible in the urine even to us because it showed better against the blood.

I'm going to call up and make the appointment for his ultrasound tommorow after they email us a quote, hoping to schedule it for within the next few days to get an idea soon as possible, depends on what times they're available. He's still so cheerful and popcorning playing with his buddy so got my fingers crossed it doesn't get worse in that time.

Thankyou for the link to the low calcium veggies! It's been hard to find consistent info online about those.
 
Our boar Oscar started squealing last Friday while peeing so we got him in at the vets on the Saturday to get checked out, he's 3 years old. They felt no bladder stones so they gave him baytil and meloxicam for suspected cystitis. Fast forward to today, we just had another appointment and he's still peeing blood, and the vet noticed sediment in it so we're going to get him an ultrasound for stones. The one thing I'm unsure about is that they said because it hadn't cleared up, to stop giving him the antibiotic and only carry on with the painkiller. I assumed that antibiotics would have been continued, it's only been a week and I found that he wasn't getting soiled on his rear end anymore by the end of the week which I assumed meant good progress. Either way we'll get him the ultrasound and go from there, but how long are antibiotics usually used to rule out a UTI? His appetite hasn't been affected, and he's still very lively, I've cut out any calcium heavy veggies as a precaution. I will follow the vet's advice I'm just worried in case we miss anything, the answer they gave wasn't expected.

Hi

Symptoms for urinary tract problems are very similar but there are more issues in play than you my be familiar with:

- UTI (i.e. bacterial urine infection, caused by an overgrowth of faecal bacteria in the urinary tract); this is an opportunistic illness and needs exposure to cold/dampness/neglect and/or a lowering of the immune system. It is actually pretty rare in indoors piggies. There should be a response to antibiotics within a week; irrespective of wether it is baytril (enrofloxacin) or septrin/bactrim (trimethoprim/sulfamethoxazole).

- sterile cystitis (a non-bacterial bladder infection with regular flare-ups), better known under its old name, interstitial cystitis or IC. This the by far the most common infection in well kept indoors piggies and mainly affects piggies with a nervous disposition due to the current commercial mass breeding for shops and by for-sale backyard breeders. Because it is a new kid on the block, it is still not much known outside vet circles dealing with guinea pigs on a regular basis.
Because it is non-bacterial antibiotics can at the best only temporarily suppress symptoms but not cure them. At the stronger end antibiotics won't have any impact at all. Sterile cystitis can only be managed with analgesics and more importantly glucosamine but it cannot be cured.
Sterile IC is characterised by a far lower count (or rather more rarely a total absence) of bacteria in the urine thn expected. Most piggies do have some faecal bacteria in the urinary tract because the tiny scent gland is situated right in front of the genitalia. Mostly it is diagnosed by default after all other potential issues have been ruled out but symptoms persist or recur every few weeks.

- Bacterial bladder infection as a secondary of stones/sludge scratching the bladder walls. The bladder is in those cases generally hard and pulled together. There should be a noticeable response to antibiotics within a week. It is compartively rare as it takes long term damage or very scratchy stones/sludge.

- Stones and sludge can cause bleeding when they scratch the bladder walls or the walls of the ureters and urethra while passing from the kidneys into the bladder and then further on to the anus.

- 'Bloody pees': Please be aware that the red in the urine at the start of infections is very often caused by a natural dye called porphyrin. It is touch duller and darker red than fresh blood and dries more into dark maroon tones compared to mid-brown when you are dealing with real blood.
Seemingly clear or slightly cloudy urine can still test high for blood while red pees can test negative for it due to porphyrin.

With the antibiotic making no impact at all, your vet has eliminated a bacterial infection and is looking for other issues. Please be aware that due to overuse/resistancy problems increasing, vets have been strongly encouraged to restrict the use of antibiotics and to not use them on spec or continue of there is no reaction.

I hope that this makes sense?
 
Hi 💖

Just from unfortunately having experience with the urinary issue department, it does not seem off to me to stop antibiotics. Especially if they did a culture. Meloxicam and glucosamine (feline cystease powder sprinkled on cucumber here) as needed for pain and inflammation are our #1 treatment, and occasional antibiotics if those aren't working. Our vet has almost exclusively prescribed SMZ TMP for suspected infections.

Hope that helps, and that he feels better soon, and that you do too. It's not a good feeling to be unsure of vet advice 💖
Thankyou for the reassurance! It didn't even occur to me he would have checked for infection during the appointment itself.

Had him since he was 3 months and never had many issues aside from a URI with his brother that our old vets took 3 visits to believe anything was wrong, left me a bit anxious about taking their advice though the new ones are good. Thankfully for now he's still playing with the other one and popcorning so I'll keep my hopes high ❤️
 
Hi

Symptoms for urinary tract problems are very similar but there are more issues in play than you my be familiar with:

- UTI (i.e. bacterial urine infection, caused by an overgrowth of faecal bacteria in the urinary tract); this is an opportunistic illness and needs exposure to cold/dampness/neglect and/or a lowering of the immune system. It is actually pretty rare in indoors piggies. There should be a response to antibiotics within a week.

- sterile cystitis (a non-bacterial bladder infection with regular flare-ups), better known under its old name, interstitial cystitis or IC. This the by far the most common infection in well kept indoors piggies and mainly affects piggies with a nervous disposition due to the current commercial mass breeding for shops and by for-sale backyard breeders.
Because it is non-bacterial antibiotics can at the best only temporarily suppress symptoms but not cure them. At the stronger end antibiotics won't have any impact at all. Sterile cystitis can only be managed with analgesics and more importantly glucosamine but it cannot be cured.
Sterile IC is characterised by a far lower count (or rather more rarely a total absence) of bacteria in the urine thn expected. Most piggies do have some faecal bacteria in the urinary tract because the tiny scent gland is situated right in front of the genitalia. Mostly it is diagnosed by default after all other potential issues have been ruled out but symptoms persist or recur every few weeks.

- Bacterial bladder infection as a secondary of stones/sludge scratching the bladder walls. The bladder is in those cases generally hard and pulled together. There should be a noticeable response to antibiotics within a week. It is compartively rare as it takes long term damage or very scratchy stones/sludge.

- Stones and sludge can cause bleeding when they scratch the bladder walls or the walls of the ureters and urethra while passing from the kidneys into the bladder and then further on to the anus.

- 'Bloody pees': Please be aware that the red in the urine at the start of infections is very often caused by a natural dye called porphyrin. It is touch duller and darker red than fresh blood and dries more into dark maroon tones compared to mid-brown when you are dealing with real blood.
Seemingly clear or slightly cloudy urine can still test high for blood while red pees can test negative for it due to porphyrin.

With the antibiotic making no impact at all, your vet has eliminated a bacterial infection and is looking for other issues. Please be aware that due to overuse/resistancy problems increasing, vets have been strongly encouraged to restrict the use of antibiotics and to not use them on spec or continue of there is no reaction.

I hope that this makes sense?
It does! Huge weight off my mind that something was off, thankyou for explaining so thoroughly! ❤️
 
It does! Huge weight off my mind that something was off, thankyou for explaining so thoroughly! ❤️

Your vet is simply working their way up the ladder of potential issues. Bacterial infections are the easiest to deal with if a quick bladder palpitation (feeling the bladder) doesn't point to a problem in there; i.e. if the bladder is relaxed and soft and not hard and pulled up. A skilled vet can also feel a larger bladder stone. Which your vet has done and nothing really massive has flagged up during a quick check.

You may end up with a sterile cystitis, which can run the gamut from the very mild to the really severe. We can help you with support tips and our own practical experiences if needed.

All the best.
 
On the calcium front, we live in a hard water area so bought a Brita water filter for them (and the kettle + coffee machine!).
I actually have a brita jug with some filters! I'll start using it for their water when I fill it up, bet it'll taste better too for them
 
I actually have a brita jug with some filters! I'll start using it for their water too when I fill it up, bet it'll taste better too for them

The problem with the diet is that there is a soft spot - which varies depending on where you are - in which the calcium balance is just right. Too low in calcium can cause the same problems as too high if you are just outside the soft spot.
We recommend to limit any pellets to just 1 tablespoon per piggy per day. This gives you more leeway on the veg front. Even no added calcium pellets contain more calcium than the same weight of kale.

However, especially hard water and pellets are the biggest contributors of calcium in the diet. Veg high in oxalates can also contribute but since they are also mostly high in vitamin C plus important magnesium and trace elements etc. (which are not in pellets) there is a compromise to be struck.
 
Update: The earliest appointment they have is Thursday for the ultrasound, hopefully we'll have an closer idea of what to do going forward after that.
 
Is there anything at all I can do to make him more comfortable leading up to Thursday? Anxiety is going crazy about it, even if he's still really cheerful. I've added a bit more cucumber to his diet along with his daily peppers, tomatoes etc because I heard a bit more water helps, he is drinking and eating still, it's just this squeaking in pain that's so hard to listen to. He's been chewing on his wooden hidey a lot more which I think is stress.

I'm in college tommorow afternoon and all day Thursday before his appointment in the evening so won't be able to check in with him as much, sometimes I sit in the cage with them and he just licks me begging for peaflakes like his usual self. His poops are small and lighter in colour than Wilbur's, the urine is trickier to spot because of the fleece colour. We are trying to get money together in case it's a surgery situation, but I'm terrified for the moment he starts acting really poorly, can't sleep over this.
 
Is there anything at all I can do to make him more comfortable leading up to Thursday? Anxiety is going crazy about it, even if he's still really cheerful. I've added a bit more cucumber to his diet along with his daily peppers, tomatoes etc because I heard a bit more water helps, he is drinking and eating still, it's just this squeaking in pain that's so hard to listen to. He's been chewing on his wooden hidey a lot more which I think is stress.

I'm in college tommorow afternoon and all day Thursday before his appointment in the evening so won't be able to check in with him as much, sometimes I sit in the cage with them and he just licks me begging for peaflakes like his usual self. His poops are small and lighter in colour than Wilbur's, the urine is trickier to spot because of the fleece colour. We are trying to get money together in case it's a surgery situation, but I'm terrified for the moment he starts acting really poorly, can't sleep over this.

Hi

If he is well in himself and the weight is stable then the best you can do is normality.

Please don't overdo the watery veg. He will not have more thirst just because you overfeed on watery veg; he will simply drink less water.
 
Hi

If he is well in himself and the weight is stable then the best you can do is normality.

Please don't overdo the watery veg. He will not have more thirst just because you overfeed on watery veg; he will simply drink less water.
I'll try not to, I've just added a slice of cucumber that they don't usually have unless we have extra, he's still drinking throughout the day so I assumed it wouldn't hurt
 
Just had the vet appointment, it's a bladder stone. It's still in his bladder so they've suggested surgery, and I also asked for a referral to a specialist, I'll have just about enough money to manage it.

He's lost about 100 pounds over the week, I've asked for critical care in case he goes off his food, can I also use it while he's still eating to help stabilise his weight?

It's a scary situation but going to do everything I can to help him. I know there's a risk of reoccurrence after surgery too, does anyone know how common that is even with all measures taken?
 
Just had the vet appointment, it's a bladder stone. It's still in his bladder so they've suggested surgery, and I also asked for a referral to a specialist, I'll have just about enough money to manage it.

He's lost about 100 pounds over the week, I've asked for critical care in case he goes off his food, can I also use it while he's still eating to help stabilise his weight?

It's a scary situation but going to do everything I can to help him. I know there's a risk of reoccurrence after surgery too, does anyone know how common that is even with all measures taken?
Sorry to hear you're in this situation.My 8 year old sow poppy had bladder stone surgery last November and came through it.I was told a stone can form again as little as 2 weeks later.Shes been doing really well but on Saturday evening I could hear some squeaking in pain but wasn't positive it was coming from her.I now know it is her and she's squealing every 10 minutes or so since yesterday evening so I'm pretty sure it's another bladder stone.Ive already got an appointment for Wednesday evening but may have to get her seen sooner.
 
Just had the vet appointment, it's a bladder stone. It's still in his bladder so they've suggested surgery, and I also asked for a referral to a specialist, I'll have just about enough money to manage it.

He's lost about 100 pounds over the week, I've asked for critical care in case he goes off his food, can I also use it while he's still eating to help stabilise his weight?

It's a scary situation but going to do everything I can to help him. I know there's a risk of reoccurrence after surgery too, does anyone know how common that is even with all measures taken?
If he's already lost weight,please use mushed up nuggets for syringe feed until the critical care arrives.Yes,you can use the critical care to help stabilise his weight.
 
If he's already lost weight,please use mushed up nuggets for syringe feed until the critical care arrives.Yes,you can use the critical care to help stabilise his weight.
I bought it from the vet so we'll start it tonight, I'm sorry you're in a similar situation, its terrifying, been crying most days. Bringing him home at the moment, then we'll weigh him and go from there. How often is syringe feeding done in the day? I'm a college student and will have to manage both, absolutely will but not sure how it works really, I'll look at the guide on the forum.
 
I bought it from the vet so we'll start it tonight, I'm sorry you're in a similar situation, its terrifying, been crying most days. Bringing him home at the moment, then we'll weigh him and go from there. How often is syringe feeding done in the day? I'm a college student and will have to manage both, absolutely will but not sure how it works really, I'll look at the guide on the forum.
Bless you,it is horrible to hear and to know they're in pain.It all depends on how much he's eating,the best time to weigh is in the morning before you give any food so you can see day to day if he's loosing any weight.If piggies are not eating much themselves I try to syringe feed around every 2 hours but I know it's not always possible to do that.Give him as much as he will take in one go, some piggies can be reluctant to take it.I think 60ml in a day is the minimum to give a piggie if they're not eating anything for themselves.
 
Bless you,it is horrible to hear and to know they're in pain.It all depends on how much he's eating,the best time to weigh is in the morning before you give any food so you can see day to day if he's loosing any weight.If piggies are not eating much themselves I try to syringe feed around every 2 hours but I know it's not always possible to do that.Give him as much as he will take in one go, some piggies can be reluctant to take it.I think 60ml in a day is the minimum to give a piggie if they're not eating anything for themselves.
He's eating a bit, he's still wheeking morning and lunchtimes getting excited, though he probably isn't eating as much of the vegetables as Wilbur and in mornings they're just grumpy there's not as many pellets, and hes gotten picky with peaflakes, only eats specific ones after dropping others. I need to find them better pellets cause I'm almost out but these vet bills are adding up fast. I had money saved for vet bills but it's gone down quick.

Whatever he's eating isn't enough though, really hope he'll just make it easier and like the taste of this food, he hates the painkillers. Compared to his brother he's so skinny, we barely noticed because Wilbur hates being held and I sit in their cage to play with him instead. I'm going to weigh both often after all this, though I hate stressing Wilbur out.

We'll aim to get his weight up, the vet seems optimistic about getting the surgery fast, possibly even next week though that's optimistic.

Adding a picture of my fluffy boys from the other day, Oscar is on the left; Wilbur on the right.
 

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It's always difficult to gage exactly how much they're eating.Weighing every morning will give you an idea of if he's eating enough hay and if he's loosing weight then he's not eating enough and that why syringe feeding is very important.Ive only had one pig who didn't like loxicom/metacam.Is that what your boy is on?Theyre both beautiful.
 
It's always difficult to gage exactly how much they're eating.Weighing every morning will give you an idea of if he's eating enough hay and if he's loosing weight then he's not eating enough and that why syringe feeding is very important.Ive only had one pig who didn't like loxicom/metacam.Is that what your boy is on?Theyre both beautiful.
He's on meloxicam/rheumocam, it's only 0.15ml every 12 hours so I use the trick of placing it behind the teeth to get it over with quickly, I've done it all before with Wilburs URI ages ago but that cleared up fast.

It's really hard to see their weight visually with all their fluff, and I'm in college during the week too so don't see him all day till weekends, feel terrible about how much has dropped. He's been out for 4 hours and tired so feel bad trying to weigh him yet, got home a couple minutes ago (we dont have a car so getting there and back is a mission), already got the medication and syringe feeding ordeal to do once he's settled, they've given us oxbow critical care. The packaging says 3tbsp per kilogramme though so got to before I feed that, just got home so I'll let him settle in. After tonight it'll be morning weigh ins.

If he doesn't take to the critical care, are there any good videos for how to feed it to him without stressing him too much? I struggle with the forums and understanding all of the text.
 
I’m sorry to hear this.

A piggy loses weight when they aren’t eating enough hay. Still eating veg and pellets doesn’t count for a huge amount as they are purely supplementary in the diet and don’t account for more than 20-25% of the daily food intake.

You can’t really go by what the packet says for the amount of critical care to give. The amount you feed purely depends on the weight checks each morning. If he has lost weight that morning then you need to give more critical care during the day so that his weight is stable the next day.
You are aiming for a minimum of 60ml per day but it is dependent on what the weight checks say. In a piggy who is still eating a decent amount of hay, they can need less critical care as purely a top up. In a piggy who has reduced their hay intake considerably they could need as much as 120ml per day to stabilise them.

Piggieminder has linked the guide in above. There are videos on that also.
 
I’m sorry to hear this.

A piggy loses weight when they aren’t eating enough hay. Still eating veg and pellets doesn’t count for a huge amount as they are purely supplementary in the diet and don’t account for more than 20-25% of the daily food intake.

You can’t really go by what the packet says for the amount of critical care to give. The amount you feed purely depends on the weight checks each morning. If he has lost weight that morning then you need to give more critical care during the day so that his weight is stable the next day.
You are aiming for a minimum of 60ml per day but it is dependent on what the weight checks say. In a piggy who is still eating a decent amount of hay, they can need less critical care as purely a top up. In a piggy who has reduced their hay intake considerably they could need as much as 120ml per day to stabilise them.

Piggieminder has linked the guide in above. There are videos on that also.
Thanks, I've found saskias method kinda works, very stressful to get it into him cause last night he loved it, today he hates it but managed just over 10ml this morning and I'll keep trying frequently over the day.
 
Best of luck, he'll feel much better with the stone gone I'm sure.
What gorgeous boys they both are 😍
 
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