Tilted Head, which vet should I trust?

[naguya]

The jump is called a popcorn and it means he's happy!

Omg, I saw videos on YouTube right now about popcorn guinea pig and it is exactly the same what he did! That's great to know he is happy!

 

[Wiebke]

The veterinary center that I would take him to is on strike (as it is a veterinary center affiliated with a federal university that houses and cares for exotic animals, I went there and they said that as soon as the strike ends Momo will be one of the first on the list to the specialist vet, they got all his information)(They informed me that he will be able to do everything there as soon as the strike ends, even a CT scan and an echocardiogram! They told me the prices, and I will be able to pay for everything! I truly hope he can stand health till there since normal exotic vets to do this much is so so so expensive, like four time as much as for a dog for the same thing), currently, in Brazil, all federal universities are on strike because of the government... This will probably be over when I return from vacation at the end of July. It happened once some years ago and it didn't last long, so I have high hopes.

Currently, his head tilt is the same, it did not get worse or better, sometimes I think it is getting better, but must be just my mind playing tricks?
Also he continues to itch a lot, the next dose of ivermectin will be on Friday. He scratches himself constantly.

He is being EXTREMELY active, it seems that a good diet was what he needed most at the moment. My boy is getting strong. Today to clean his cage, I released him into my bedroom, he was very shy, he was paralyzed for about 20 minutes and looking up, at the window, at the closet, at everything. But he went very slowly under my bed and for the first time I saw him run! He ran under the bed as much as if he were a happy dog walking in his favorite spot. He then got out of under the bed, he gave a kind of jump (I have never seen that, it was like jumping in air all stretched out) making a noise and ran under the bed again. When he saw I putting his fresh new hay he came to me by himself! And I was able to pick him with no trouble.

It makes me so glad to see him this happy! He is opening to me little by little, and becoming more bold (my bold boy!) and also more demanding about his food haha. This is one of the things I wanted to ask. Should I ask about his diet here or create another thread in diet forum? I would like to know some advice about what he is doing with his food, I think it is related to his previous owner.

Poor you for the bad timing but glad that he is on the list.

I am sorry that his head tilt has not improved but I am relieved that it at least stable so there is no emergency. He may have to get used to living with it but piggies are very good at adapting and it will not kill his joy of life.

Emerging mange mites always build up towards the second interval but the next application should get on top of it within 2 days or so. The third and a possible fourth round are mainly there to catch any stragglers and make sure that they don't start a new outbreak pretty straight away again.

 

[naguya]

Hello everyone,

It seems his head tilt is truly improving and it is not only my imagination! I saw him a few times today in a slightly normal head position which until now he never kept his head straight to me! Most of the day his head tilt was the same, to the left, but it seems like there has been a LITTLE improvement! I will record him once again soon at home and compare. But I truly do believe he improved a little bit!

I forgot to mention also, that on the last Tuesday of last week, the day he arrived, his urine was whitish like a slime, and when it got dried it became white solid. I really don't know what it was and forgot to tell vet and also here, but I know that in the last few days it has been very liquid and light yellow! He's been urinating a lot, normal clean urine, I think that's a good sign, right?

They informed me that his large cage arrived at my house today, I'm going back with him at the weekend. When I get home should I transfer him to the new cage or keep him in this small one his is now until the end of the antibiotic and ivermectin since he is on quarantine time?

Also, I'm sorry if I should create a new thread about this, but I have some questions about his diet, if it is needed, I will post this in another thread. He has never eaten vegetables before, just has been fed on pellets and some hay his entire life. I'm having a little trouble with vegetables, I've tried several vegetables, and he is refusing all bell peppers colors. But when it comes to pellets he goes crazy, I know he can't eat much of them, and I am giving him only a small portion once a day. He seems hungry, is there some tips how can I make him to get used to vegetables? And stop being so crazy about pellets?
He loves carrots, but I am only giving tiny slices as treats after baytril. He is normally eating hay. And, lots of normal poo in cage!

Also, lots of running and roaming in my bedroom, also lots of communication when he is running! Yesterday's night, when it was 2am he woke me up looking at me with loud noises, only to take him off the cage to run bellow my bed. After the running session I called him with hay and he came by himself and I think he slept after that!

Again, thank you all for the great help!

 

[Piggies&buns]

Hello everyone,

It seems his head tilt is truly improving and it is not only my imagination! I saw him a few times today in a slightly normal head position which until now he never kept his head straight to me! Most of the day his head tilt was the same, to the left, but it seems like there has been a LITTLE improvement! I will record him once again soon at home and compare. But I truly do believe he improved a little bit!

I forgot to mention also, that on the last Tuesday of last week, the day he arrived, his urine was whitish like a slime, and when it got dried it became white solid. I really don't know what it was and forgot to tell vet and also here, but I know that in the last few days it has been very liquid and light yellow! He's been urinating a lot, normal clean urine, I think that's a good sign, right?

They informed me that his large cage arrived at my house today, I'm going back with him at the weekend. When I get home should I transfer him to the new cage or keep him in this small one his is now until the end of the antibiotic and ivermectin since he is on quarantine time?

Also, I'm sorry if I should create a new thread about this, but I have some questions about his diet, if it is needed, I will post this in another thread. He has never eaten vegetables before, just has been fed on pellets and some hay his entire life. I'm having a little trouble with vegetables, I've tried several vegetables, and he is refusing all bell peppers colors. But when it comes to pellets he goes crazy, I know he can't eat much of them, and I am giving him only a small portion once a day. He seems hungry, is there some tips how can I make him to get used to vegetables? And stop being so crazy about pellets?
He loves carrots, but I am only giving tiny slices as treats after baytril. He is normally eating hay. And, lots of normal poo in cage!

Also, lots of running and roaming in my bedroom, also lots of communication when he is running! Yesterday's night, when it was 2am he woke me up looking at me with loud noises, only to take him off the cage to run bellow my bed. After the running session I called him with hay and he came by himself and I think he slept after that!

Again, thank you all for the great help!

In terms of the new cage.
If his current cage is too small then he will be better off in a bigger cage while he waits for a new Friend. It does just mean that you need to find another neutral area to carry out the bonding, and you will have to clean out the cage before moving them to it after.

Bonding must be done properly on neutral territory. If momo is living in the new cage it is his territory and you cannot just put the new piggy into the cage as it’ll cause a fight

 

[naguya]

In terms of the new cage.
If his current cage is too small then he will be better off in a bigger cage while he waits for a new Friend. It does just mean that you need to find another neutral area to carry out the bonding, and you will have to clean out the cage before moving them to it after.

Bonding must be done properly on neutral territory. If momo is living in the new cage it is his territory and you cannot just put the new piggy into the cage as it’ll cause a fight

Thank you! He is in his small cage yet, sometimes I let he free roam in my roam during the day but I know it isn't enough, but I will move him to his new cage later today! I was so afraid about the future bonding. What could be a neutral area to introduce the two? I read it takes about two weeks to they "meet". I only have this small cage (which he is in) and the big one which hasn't been used yet.

 

[weepweeps]

Thank you! He is in his small cage yet, sometimes I let he free roam in my roam during the day but I know it isn't enough, but I will move him to his new cage later today! I was so afraid about the future bonding. What could be a neutral area to introduce the two? I read it takes about two weeks to they "meet". I only have this small cage (which he is in) and the big one which hasn't been used yet.

I’d get him in the big cage as soon as you can. He’ll love it.

The neutral space could be a bathroom, a hall way, or at a push a bath or even a shower. It’s got to be somewhere neither of the piggies think is theirs.

Once you get him a friend post again on here and you’ll get tonnes of bonding tips and guides.

 

[Wiebke]

Thank you! He is in his small cage yet, sometimes I let he free roam in my roam during the day but I know it isn't enough, but I will move him to his new cage later today! I was so afraid about the future bonding. What could be a neutral area to introduce the two? I read it takes about two weeks to they "meet". I only have this small cage (which he is in) and the big one which hasn't been used yet.

Hi

Any area that is not part of the regular territory, where your piggies cannot run away and disappear behind furniture/appliances and that is easily to clean because they spray each other liberally with testosterone laden pee. A bathtub or an enclose shower room is a good place.

Pre-bonding, different rules apply for guinea pigs under 4 months and guinea pigs over 4 months:
- Guinea pigs over 4 months: please quarantine in a different room for 2 weeks so the newbie doesn't carry in new parasites and infectious diseases. You can use the old cage. This time will also allow him to settle into your household.
- Youngsters under 4 months: the need for companionship comes before the need of quarantine. You will have to treat both piggies if the youngster comes with uninvested guests. Please assure the sex before bonding. You can give them a day or two in adjoining cages to get them used to each other.
This is the pre-bonding.
Illustrated Sexing Guide

The introduction itself is on neutral ground and takes a few hours to a day/overnight, depending on how well they get on. It usually pays to let the boys work out the worst of their overexcitement in the neutral area without any furniture (apart from a 'safe room' your older piggy cannot get into when bonding with a baby. The 'safe room' can be a cardboard box with a little soft hay and two holes on opposite sides, so he cannot be trapped in there. If your boys can't settle down with each other, the bonding has failed.

The two weeks post-introduction group estalishment part of the bonding process:
You move your piggies together to the large, cleaned and neutralised cages (the deep cleaning also includes any huts). Only use very little furniture and only things with two exits, so the underpiggy cannot be trapped - trapping is when the deep defence bites to the face/mouth happen because there is no other way out for the trapped piggy. If wished move the baby cardboard box into the big cage.
The group/territory establishing dominance behaviour should settle down more with every passing day; it is an essential part of the bonding process but in a good bond it is on the mild to medium side. There will be less territorial dominance behviour if you give your boys longer in the neutral area so they feel more bonded before they move into the shared care.

Please take the time to carefully read through our very detailed step by step bonding guide with pictures and videos: Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics
(The guide sontains a step-by-step guide to all stages of the bonding process with the typical behaviours plus extra chapters on special aspects of boar to boar and on bonding with babies of both genders)

There are further helpful links on different aspects included in the guide. The bonding guide contains a lit of behaviours that shows when a bonding has failed for each step of the bonding process.
Dominance Behaviours In Guinea Pigs
A - Z of Guinea Pig Behaviours

 

[naguya]

Hi

Any area that is not part of the regular territory, where your piggies cannot run away and disappear behind furniture/appliances and that is easily to clean because they spray each other liberally with testosterone laden pee. A bathtub or an enclose shower room is a good place.

Pre-bonding, different rules apply for guinea pigs under 4 months and guinea pigs over 4 months:
- Guinea pigs over 4 months: please quarantine in a different room for 2 weeks so the newbie doesn't carry in new parasites and infectious diseases. You can use the old cage. This time will also allow him to settle into your household.
- Youngsters under 4 months: the need for companionship comes before the need of quarantine. You will have to treat both piggies if the youngster comes with uninvested guests. Please assure the sex before bonding. You can give them a day or two in adjoining cages to get them used to each other.
This is the pre-bonding.
Illustrated Sexing Guide

The introduction itself is on neutral ground and takes a few hours to a day/overnight, depending on how well they get on. It usually pays to let the boys work out the worst of their overexcitement in the neutral area without any furniture (apart from a 'safe room' your older piggy cannot get into when bonding with a baby. The 'safe room' can be a cardboard box with a little soft hay and two holes on opposite sides, so he cannot be trapped in there. If your boys can't settle down with each other, the bonding has failed.

The two weeks post-introduction group estalishment part of the bonding process:
You move your piggies together to the large, cleaned and neutralised cages (the deep cleaning also includes any huts). Only use very little furniture and only things with two exits, so the underpiggy cannot be trapped - trapping is when the deep defence bites to the face/mouth happen because there is no other way out for the trapped piggy. If wished move the baby cardboard box into the big cage.
The group/territory establishing dominance behaviour should settle down more with every passing day; it is an essential part of the bonding process but in a good bond it is on the mild to medium side. There will be less territorial dominance behviour if you give your boys longer in the neutral area so they feel more bonded before they move into the shared care.

Please take the time to carefully read through our very detailed step by step bonding guide with pictures and videos: Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics

There are further helpful links on different aspects included in the guide. The bonding guide contains a lit of behaviours that shows when a bonding has failed for each step of the bonding process.
Dominance Behaviours In Guinea Pigs
A - Z of Guinea Pig Behaviours

Thank you so much again for always helping me! Many things were sorted out thanks for your help!

I will read all the guides once I arrive home! I am on my way right now.

Since Momo is something about 6-7 months old, do you think it would be better to pick a younger boy or look for one about same age as him? Recently I saw someone selling 2 months old guinea pigs.
In my state we don't have good guinea pigs sellers/rescuers, so any age can come with disease, unfortunately. Once getting one should I give ivermectin for the new one? For prophylaxis?

I have a spare room, the only problem, is that my tortoise terrarium is there, and she is really grumpy and hates to be annoyed by anything. She sleeps in this room (inside the enclosure) at night and she is inside on cold days. I think she would be terribly afraid with two boars running around.

You told a bathtub would be alright, so if I look for something about that size I just leave them for two weeks there? Of course, cleaning everything. (I will read the guides! Sorry if I am asking for something which probably is on them!)

 

[naguya]

Also, updating about his tilt head, it improved A LOT when he is walking, like when he is looking above or just running or trying to do something. But I noticed it did not change for worse or better when he is on static mode, like sitting or looking for something. At this time, we can notice he has a very pronounced tilt head. But he stopped running in circles to the left (thankfully!), I also noticed he doesn't like I touch him on his head left side (which is the side of the tilt head), I looked for something there but I didn't find nothing wrong, no redness, no lump, nothing visible or palpable.

I think this is a consequence due to some disease, but I am still going to take him to the vet to make exams and further research once the strike ends. Strike ended in two of my cities state, much probably in July this one will too.

He is 100% more active and visibly happy. Somehow, at least I think, the antibiotics is helping him. Even though he is also itchy, it decreased a lot after the second dose of ivermectin.

He shows no pain, normal poop, normal urine, normal eating (just troublesome to eat vegetables), drinking plenty of water, normal genitals (I checked it again). Popcorning and zooming a lot.

I also gave a bath on him following the guide on this forum using warm water, everything went smooth, he was extremely dirt and many black points came down (I think the mites? I am not sure) the water came dark brown. After bath he was very mad to me, but I think he forgave me by now.

 

[Wiebke]

Thank you so much again for always helping me! Many things were sorted out thanks for your help!

I will read all the guides once I arrive home! I am on my way right now.

Since Momo is something about 6-7 months old, do you think it would be better to pick a younger boy or look for one about same age as him? Recently I saw someone selling 2 months old guinea pigs.
In my state we don't have good guinea pigs sellers/rescuers, so any age can come with disease, unfortunately. Once getting one should I give ivermectin for the new one? For prophylaxis?

I have a spare room, the only problem, is that my tortoise terrarium is there, and she is really grumpy and hates to be annoyed by anything. She sleeps in this room (inside the enclosure) at night and she is inside on cold days. I think she would be terribly afraid with two boars running around.

You told a bathtub would be alright, so if I look for something about that size I just leave them for two weeks there? Of course, cleaning everything. (I will read the guides! Sorry if I am asking for something which probably is on them!)

Hi

I am taking your unregulated conditions into account re. quarantine recommendations and how you can best manage with what you have got.

6 months are the life-long hormone high and are the time when bonding boars is at its most difficult. Look for a submissive baby boar if you can watch the babies interacting for a little while.
We can help you with confirming the sex. Talk with the seller whether you can take the baby back if the bonding is not working out.

Yes, in your case with Momo having just had mange mites himself I would recommend to conduct a course for any new piggy. Please be aware that skin parasite (ivermectin/selamectin) treatment is weight dependent and that this is a medication that can cause harm if overdosed. If in doubt, please give your vet clinic a call with the new piggy's weight and ask them what a safe dosage is for him.

 

[Wiebke]

Also, updating about his tilt head, it improved A LOT when he is walking, like when he is looking above or just running or trying to do something. But I noticed it did not change for worse or better when he is on static mode, like sitting or looking for something. At this time, we can notice he has a very pronounced tilt head. But he stopped running in circles to the left (thankfully!), I also noticed he doesn't like I touch him on his head left side (which is the side of the tilt head), I looked for something there but I didn't find nothing wrong, no redness, no lump, nothing visible or palpable.

I think this is a consequence due to some disease, but I am still going to take him to the vet to make exams and further research once the strike ends. Strike ended in two of my cities state, much probably in July this one will too.

He is 100% more active and visibly happy. Somehow, at least I think, the antibiotics is helping him. Even though he is also itchy, it decreased a lot after the second dose of ivermectin.

He shows no pain, normal poop, normal urine, normal eating (just troublesome to eat vegetables), drinking plenty of water, normal genitals (I checked it again). Popcorning and zooming a lot.

I also gave a bath on him following the guide on this forum using warm water, everything went smooth, he was extremely dirt and many black points came down (I think the mites? I am not sure) the water came dark brown. After bath he was very mad to me, but I think he forgave me by now.

I am glad that Momo is a lot better in himself. You still need to conduct a third round and if needed a fourth round if the itchiness comes back after the third round. The black dots are the empty egg cases of hay mites (which is the less aggressive form of guinea pig mites). Hay mites (chirodiscoides caviae) fix their tiny egg cases to hairs around the bum and in the underlayers; like, minuscule beads on a string. These mites live off debris on the skin and hairs. You can slow down any attack a lot by giving even a short-haired guinea pig a hair cut to remove as many egg cases as possible in addtion to any vet strength ivermectin/selamectin based medication. By removing the egg cases there will be a lot less new mites emerging.
For you this is a bit too late but it may be useful to know in case hay mites are coming back.

Mange mites (trixacarus caviae) burrow their eggs into the increasingly irritated and painful skin; which, if left untreated, can lead to seizures, loss of appetite and kill. The vigorous scratching and skin biting can lead to hair loss and bloody sores.
You can't see either mite. If you see pale things crawling through the hair coat, you are dealing with guinea pig lice.

 

[naguya]

Hello everyone,

Just excited to show his new cage! It isn't full done yet, mostly I just got the cage! For now I am using woodshaving and a layer above, but I am providing fleeces and pads for bedding as soon as possible! (So for now everything also the layer, it's temporary, but sooooo much better than his small cage!)

Also, I just got the wooden house for now, the entire cloth layette (beds, hammock, hay holder, pillows, tunnels) was canceled by the seller and I have to order again! So I improvised with some things I had.

But I am so so so happy because he is a little shy now, but he already started running and popcorning in his new cage! Ate something there and here and went exploring!

At the end of my vacation, I will take this bigger cage back to the apartment so it will be placed in a much better place and till then, much more better accessories!

I am so happy for Momo!

 

[Ramia]

É tão legal! O Momo esta mais feliz!

 

[Wiebke]

Hello everyone,

Just excited to show his new cage! It isn't full done yet, mostly I just got the cage! For now I am using woodshaving and a layer above, but I am providing fleeces and pads for bedding as soon as possible! (So for now everything also the layer, it's temporary, but sooooo much better than his small cage!)

Also, I just got the wooden house for now, the entire cloth layette (beds, hammock, hay holder, pillows, tunnels) was canceled by the seller and I have to order again! So I improvised with some things I had.

But I am so so so happy because he is a little shy now, but he already started running and popcorning in his new cage! Ate something there and here and went exploring!

At the end of my vacation, I will take this bigger cage back to the apartment so it will be placed in a much better place and till then, much more better accessories!

I am so happy for Momo!

View attachment 251459

Looks like Momo is loving his new home, too!

 

[naguya]

Hey...

So, yesterday I put Momo in the new cage, right...?
So, I explained to my mother about how after Momo's antibiotics and ivermectin course finish I would get a young boar ONLY in the end of July. She truly seemed not to pay attention or didn't care, she just said "alright".

BUT, today, when she came after work, guess what? She bought a boar from I don't know where, who turned 2 months old this week. She claimed the seller showed his penis...

The problem is... I was truly NOT prepared to another boar now, since all the accessories for the cage aren't here and also, Momo's medicines aren't finished yet!

What do I do? He is very small, looking for outside he is very healthy and extremely active. I don't know if I did right thing? I put him in Momo's current cage...

Momo seemed VERY curious, but it seems everything is going smooth, the youngest is very submissive, Momo tried to mount above him a few times and the youngest ran away screaming, but I saw them a few times together like talking, also Momo was trying to bite his ear and chase him sometimes, but nothing serious, just lots of talk, really LOTS.

I separated the food, and they are both eating, and I got two water bottles.

I am also reading the guides here of bonding and behavior.

Is there something I can do? Do I take the youngest to the previous vet of Momo? Do I give ivermectin to the youngest?

Thank you for the help!

 

[naguya]

Both are sleeping now, each one in a different hiding

 

[Wiebke]

Hey...

So, yesterday I put Momo in the new cage, right...?
So, I explained to my mother about how after Momo's antibiotics and ivermectin course finish I would get a young boar ONLY in the end of July. She truly seemed not to pay attention or didn't care, she just said "alright".

BUT, today, when she came after work, guess what? She bought a boar from I don't know where, who turned 2 months old this week. She claimed the seller showed his penis...

The problem is... I was truly NOT prepared to another boar now, since all the accessories for the cage aren't here and also, Momo's medicines aren't finished yet!

What do I do? He is very small, looking for outside he is very healthy and extremely active. I don't know if I did right thing? I put him in Momo's current cage...

Momo seemed VERY curious, but it seems everything is going smooth, the youngest is very submissive, Momo tried to mount above him a few times and the youngest ran away screaming, but I saw them a few times together like talking, also Momo was trying to bite his ear and chase him sometimes, but nothing serious, just lots of talk, really LOTS.

I separated the food, and they are both eating, and I got two water bottles.

I am also reading the guides here of bonding and behavior.

Is there something I can do? Do I take the youngest to the previous vet of Momo? Do I give ivermectin to the youngest?

Thank you for the help!

Hi

I am very sorry. Please never just stick a new piggy into an another piggy's cage. Guinea pigs are territorial and the newbie will feel and be seen as an intruder, which means things can quickly turn aggressive. In your case, because the newbie is just a baby, acceptance seems to have happened. Nibbling on the ear is means 'I want you to be part of the group I am leading. It is the friendliest dominance/acceptance from a stronger piggy possible. The other behviours are standard group establishing dominance behaviours.

Please learn about bonding behaviours and understanding their interaction in these links here. It is going to be another quick learning curve for you. The baby is too young to fight and bite; he wants to belong and is essentially still a very vocal and dramatic baby.
Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics (see chapter baby bonding)
A - Z of Guinea Pig Behaviours
Dominance Behaviours In Guinea Pigs

Please weigh the baby boy and then give the vet clinic a call to ask what the appropriate dosage of the mites medication is for the new arrival so he can have their own three rounds. You have to treat this as a shared quarantine.

For sexing confirmation, here is our sexing guide with reference pictures. You are still looking at a baby with not yet descended testicles. You can also take a picture of both the outside of the genitalia and the inside of the slit for us to have a look.
Additionally you can feel just above the penis button for the tiny penis shaft just under the skin. Do it first with Momo and then with the baby. Sows don't have a penis, so they are just totally soft in that area.
Illustrated Sexing Guide

If you want to learn about development and understand your boys' relationship, then you will find these two guide links here interesting:
Journey through a Lifetime: The Ages of Guinea Pigs
A Comprehensive Guide to Guinea Pig Boars

 

[Wiebke]

Both are sleeping now, each one in a different hiding

That is normal. Most piggies don't sleep snuggled up; they are not like rats and usually have their own little nook in the group denning area for sleeping.

 

[naguya]

Thank you so much @Wiebke ! I am so overwhelmed, I am doing all of this right way, also calling the vet!
The youngest is eating now, Momo saw it but kept sleeping.

I am already reading some of the guides you sent since I got so desperate at the moment, and I am going to read the others now, thank you very much again for everything!

 

[Wiebke]

Thank you so much @Wiebke ! I am so overwhelmed, I am doing all of this right way, also calling the vet!
The youngest is eating now, Momo saw it but kept sleeping.

I am already reading some of the guides you sent since I got so desperate at the moment, and I am going to read the others now, thank you very much again for everything!

You will get there. Just take it step by step. Your two boys are getting along. Momo has accepted the baby and is just establishing his leadership in the new group - but there is a group and he is doing his best to make it work. It may look rough to you but your piggies understand the process instinctively. It is all in the normal range and it can all be sorted out. Phew!

You will have to try and get a larger cage as soon as possible but please contact us for tips for how to best manage the move without causing a full new dominane sort-out. As long as it happens before the baby hits the teenage hormones, it should be OK.

Just take a deep breath and try to enjoy the baby. It can all be worked around.

 

[naguya]

You will get there. Just take it step by step. Your two boys are getting along. Momo has accepted the baby and is just establishing his leadership in the new group - but there is a group and he is doing his best to make it work. It may look rough to you but your piggies understand the process instinctively. It is all in the normal range and it can all be sorted out. Phew!

You will have to try and get a larger cage as soon as possible but please contact us for tips for how to best manage the move without causing a full new dominane sort-out. As long as it happens before the baby hits the teenage hormones, it should be OK.

Just take a deep breath and try to enjoy the baby. It can all be worked around.

Thank you! I am so pretty nervous like now, like I needed to take a medicine to calm down, because I was truly not expecting any of this!

I called the vet, and vet told I could give half of Momo's medicine. He said since Momo is taking 0,25mg I could give him 0,12mg, because they are tablets and it is nowhere to be found this medicine in liquid form... He also said to do 5 rounds for Momo (Momo is in the 2 round, Friday will be the 3) and 3 for the youngest. Is that alright? It is the same vet who told Momo should take baytril. Momo weights now 472g and the new baby 268g.

I was monitoring them just now, and saw some behavior hints, as the guide told, like "smelling" from behind and Momo trying to lift the baby's head. Also, the baby was running after Momo and Momo did not care much, after some minutes Momo chased him back and tried to mount, the baby accepted for a few seconds after getting away. Momo did not try to bite him anymore or harm him in any way. Also the baby was running around and calmed down to sleep again, Momo saw this and kept eating his hay.

They are in the 12 sq ft cage (120x90cm), which I will take to the apartment in end of July. Mother just told she almost bought two boars, THANKS GOD she didn't do that, because I read here somewhere three boars are definitely hard to deal, I also told her not to buy any more of them!

 

[naguya]

Both of them in the same "improvised tunnel", Momo is not paying much attention, just smelling him sometimes now! And they keep talking a lot!

 

[Wiebke]

Thank you! I am so pretty nervous like now, like I needed to take a medicine to calm down, because I was truly not expecting any of this!

I called the vet, and vet told I could give half of Momo's medicine. He said since Momo is taking 0,25mg I could give him 0,12mg, because they are tablets and it is nowhere to be found this medicine in liquid form... He also said to do 5 rounds for Momo (Momo is in the 2 round, Friday will be the 3) and 3 for the youngest. Is that alright? It is the same vet who told Momo should take baytril. Momo weights now 472g and the new baby 268g.

I was monitoring them just now, and saw some behavior hints, as the guide told, like "smelling" from behind and Momo trying to lift the baby's head. Also, the baby was running after Momo and Momo did not care much, after some minutes Momo chased him back and tried to mount, the baby accepted for a few seconds after getting away. Momo did not try to bite him anymore or harm him in any way. Also the baby was running around and calmed down to sleep again, Momo saw this and kept eating his hay.

They are in the 12 sq ft cage (120x90cm), which I will take to the apartment in end of July. Mother just told she almost bought two boars, THANKS GOD she didn't do that, because I read here somewhere three boars are definitely hard to deal, I also told her not to buy any more of them!

Your vet's advice sounds sensible in view of the weights.

And the behaviour is perfectly normal and acceptable. It always looks rather rough at this stage but it will get better. At the moment it is not about being friends but about who is the boss. The friends bit comes later. There is no risk of fights or fall-outs. They are together and they want to be together but please don't expect lots of cuddling and snuggling. That is not the guinea pig way.


PS: The baby is a little cutie! <3

 

[naguya]

Your vet's advice sounds sensible.

And the behaviour is perfectly normal and acceptable. It always looks rather rough at this stage but it will get better. At the moment it is not about being friends but about who is the boss. The friends bit comes later. There is no risk of fights or fall-outs. They are together and they want to be together but please don't expect lots of cuddling and snuggling. That is not the guinea pig way.

Thank you so much again! I have been in some forums and groups before, as The Tortoise Forum, also in some other ones related to healthy. And you are one of the few people I have met in my life who completely helped and resolved all my doubts (and from other people too from what I have been reading here!). I admire you a lot! I'm sure you've saved many guinea pig lives and helped improve their quality of life (yours and from others!) thank you so so so much again!

Just them not attacking each other and keeping each other company over time calms me down. My only goal is for them to be happy and keep each other company.

I was truly overwhelmed earlier with this all! It is a GREAT relief to know everything is working out, even if it was not exactly the right time!

 

[Wiebke]

Thank you so much again! I have been in some forums and groups before, as The Tortoise Forum, also in some other ones related to healthy. And you are one of the few people I have met in my life who completely helped and resolved all my doubts (and from other people too from what I have been reading here!). I admire you a lot! I'm sure you've saved many guinea pig lives and helped improve their quality of life (yours and from others!) thank you so so so much again!

Just them not attacking each other and keeping each other company over time calms me down. My only goal is for them to be happy and keep each other company.

I was truly overwhelmed earlier with this all! It is a GREAT relief to know everything is working out, even if it was not exactly the right time!

Thank you. I do try my best.

But for the immediate term your two boys have bonded and are getting on. Being vocal is a very good sign and the dominance is very much on the mild side. How the relationship develops in the future, especially when the baby hits the teenage hormones, is a bridge to cross when you actually get there. There are always ways to work around things and to find the best possible solution for your specific circumstances.

Just concentrate on the fact that Momo has found a friend he likes and wants to be with and that the baby doesn't look like he is very dominant himself.

 

[naguya]

Thank you. I do try my best.

But for the immediate term your two boys have bonded and are getting on. Being vocal is a very good sign and the dominance is very much on the mild side. How the relationship develops in the future, especially when the baby hits the teenage hormones, is a bridge to cross when you actually get there. There are always ways to work around things and to find the best possible solution for your specific circumstances.

Just concentrate on the fact that Momo has found a friend he likes and wants to be with and that the baby doesn't look like he is very dominant himself.

Actually now, he is following Momo everywhere! Even in hidings! And Momo seems to be liking his presence! I just spotted both of them sleeping together in that cardboard tunnel, side by side, touching each other. It seems it is a true miracle , because my only wish was for Momo not to pick a fight with him! I wish I could have taken a photo, but when Momo saw me he came after me. Do you think Momo was in a kind of depression? Since he never had a friend? Because they are bonding so fast, and Momo is so accepting, I read everywhere it takes time!

Also, I think I am kind of unlucky when comes to the health of guinea pigs haha. I started checking the baby more carefully, and I spotted one of his eyes is bigger than other. Unfortunately, I know this would need exams to be checked (at least I think?), I don't know if I am paranoid but I was checking on internet, and saw it could be glaucoma or some tumor.
So I need to take both of them to the exotic vet (which the price is lots lower because of the university) end of July to make full exams. Also, since Momo liked him, I truly don't want to return this baby.

Momo and tilt head and this baby with different eyes size.

 

[naguya]

Just spotted both of them in this tunnel ( I know if it should have two exits, but Momo really loves this box). I have been sitting for a while and no signals of aggression from Momo, I spotted Momo licking his head and fur.

I am not seeing the baby eating, I tried to put vegetables, hay and pellets in random places at the cage to see if he eats something, but I didn't see he eating till now I look to spend some time with them just by the cage side talking to them in a soothing way, for the baby to get used to me, Momo is already coming to me everytime I enter the room and let me pick him easily.

Since this cardboard box which Momo loves doesn't has two exits, should I remove it? He follows Momo everywhere, but sometimes the baby stay in the corner of the cage being like a stone, I always try to put food everywhere he is.

 

[naguya]

 

[Wiebke]

Why not just cut a little 'door' opening somewhere at the back of the box? The baby will take his cues from Momo. Just give him time to settle in. The need to eat will kick in. Momo is telling him that he loves him and cares about him.

You can also peg a sheet over the cage so it feels more protected; that also helps to give the newbie a feeling of protection. He will come out when all is quiet.

 

[naguya]

Why not just cut a little 'door' opening somewhere at the back of the box? The baby will take his cues from Momo. Just give him time to settle in. The need to eat will kick in. Momo is telling him that he loves him and cares about him.

You can also peg a sheet over the cage so it feels more protected; that also helps to give the newbie a feeling of protection. He will come out when all is quiet.

Thank you! I didn't think about making a small door! I am going to do this right now!
Thank you so much again!
That's nice to read and much more reassuring!