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Grinding teeth when eating? Is this normal or not?

They didn’t give three just one each so I don’t think it was a three treatment

To properly treat mites, each piggy needs three separate treatments over the next six weeks (two weeks between each treatment).

one treatment today; one in two weeks time; one a further two weeks after that.

Xeno only kills live mites, so the treatment today will kill the live mites, but any eggs will remain. By the time the two weeks is up, those eggs will have hatched, it’ll be time for the second treatment and the mites will then be caught by the second treatment. The third treatment just makes sure any stragglers are caught. Thereby ending the infestation.

If you only give them one treatment each, then when the current eggs hatch they will be free to continue to lay more eggs and the infestation will continue.

Its also a good idea to get rid of any hay, wash fabric bedding and soak any wooden items in F10 Disinfectant. Throw cardboard items away.

New Guinea Pig Problems: Sexing & Pregnancy; URI, Ringworm & Parasites; Vet Checks & Customer Rights
 
To properly treat mites, each piggy needs three separate treatments over the next six weeks (two weeks between each treatment).

one treatment today; one in two weeks time; one a further two weeks after that.

Xeno only kills live mites, so the treatment today will kill the live mites, but any eggs will remain. By the time the two weeks is up, those eggs will have hatched, it’ll be time for the second treatment and the mites will then be caught by the second treatment. The third treatment just makes sure any stragglers are caught. Thereby ending the infestation.

If you only give them one treatment each, then when the current eggs hatch they will be free to continue to lay more eggs and the infestation will continue.

Its also a good idea to get rid of any hay, wash fabric bedding and soak any wooden items in F10 Disinfectant. Throw cardboard items away.

New Guinea Pig Problems: Sexing & Pregnancy; URI, Ringworm & Parasites; Vet Checks & Customer Rights
What should i do then? Also I’ve recently moved and were moving again on the 15th and I’ve only got one bag of hay and pigs need to eat hay so I can’t get rid of the hay.
 
What should i do then? Also I’ve recently moved and were moving again on the 15th and I’ve only got one bag of hay and pigs need to eat hay so I can’t get rid of the hay.

Speak to the vet. You will need to complete the course of treatment to fully deal with it.
Hay mites come in with hay bags so replacing the hay is a good idea.

Was is Xeno 450 you were given? (If I remember rightly your piggies are adult?)
The number of pipettes that are given per treatment is dependent upon their weight.
 
We've not had any problems with Pets at Home hay... it's bog standard stuff. We use the Meadow and Timothy mix they do - but that's just piggy preference! Your mites might have been hay mites but there are different types and they might also have been brought in with at least one of your piggies. It does happen - and they can carry them for quite a while without noticing.

If your vet only gave you one xeno-450 pipette for each pig, find a different vet or phone back/mail and point out about the 3 doses. Blame us if you like! Xeno-450 actually comes in boxes of 6 pipettes which is what you really need. Also in that box are instructions which clearly state about 3 doses two weeks apart so somebody hasn't been reading the manual! It will be more expensive as they charge per pipette for the medication but they shouldn't charge a second consultation fee as it was their error. The practice manager should be able to sort that out for you if there's a query.

When you apply the spot on you do it onto the skin - not onto the fur. I put some in the bald spots behind the ears and dot the rest either into any handy rosettes or lift the fur along the spine and spot it at the roots onto the skin there. Any live mites should all be killed off in the first day or so when the solution is at it's strongest. If there's a heavy infestation you may notice a frenzy of scratching and squeaking in the first few hours - hopefully not too bad as it's upsetting to see. But after that things should calm down and your teeth grinding symptoms should alleviate. I normally blitz/wash out the cages after a day or so to let anything that has fallen off jump back on and die! But as @Piggies&buns said any eggs will start to hatch and any infant mites with start to mature so the second and third doses deal with those before they start to breed. Let us know how you get on x
 
Well that’s kind of awkward. To be honest I feel embarrassed to share this but I want to.
1. I struggle to confront people when they do something wrong due to a condition I have. It’s also quite hard for me to speak on the phone for the same reason
2. Since I Lost my job due to the pandemic and haven’t been successful with finding a new job, I have been struggling a little financially. The thing is the last appointment was £98.99 which I had as part of my savings in total for both (including the treatmen) i can’t use all my money as I need to spend on essential food, like my Guinea pigs food, my own food etc.

.I know I should talk to them but these are the things stopping me. I know I have a duty of care legally to my pigs but certain things are difficult for me. (Not a lot but a couple)

It’s ashame you can’t get insurance for Guinea pigs. Like you can for dogs cats, ferrets and rabbits but not any other pets.
 
Oh I'm so sorry to hear that. You are not alone in not being able to raise these issues, it can be difficult for anyone but impossible for some people. I do understand. And money doesn't grow on trees. You can actually get guinea pig insurance from one company at least but most people on here don't - the general opinion is that it's more useful to try and put a little bit to one side every month in a vet fund. That is because some conditions and treatments are not covered by the insurance so it's very frustrating to know you've paid it but they won't pay out!

The big question is: Did the xeno stop your piggies scratching and grinding their teeth? Do they seem better and happier in themselves since the application?

If yes then it was some sort of external parasite causing itching which has been killed - so right now they're happy, and the issue isn't urgent.

They think it’s a parasites again. They prescribed the same as last time. Xeno One pipette per each Guinea pig.

So it looks like in July the vet gave one pipette per guinea pig and presumably no repeat treatments. Which will be why they've got to this stage again. It won't be a separate infestation, it will be the same thing as before because Xeno doesn't kill off the eggs. If you can at least get a second pipette for each pig to do a second treatment after 14 days you will stand a much better chance of not having this problem repeating itself endlessly.

Do you think you might be near to / eligible for PDSA treatment? I've lifted this from their website: What we do
---------------------------------------------
Eligible pet owners
We help the pets of owners in need.

To be eligible for our free veterinary service, owners must be in receipt of means-tested help with council tax (Council Tax Support / Reduction) and live within the catchment area of a PDSA Pet Hospital.

To be eligible for our reduced cost veterinary service, owners must live within the catchment area of a PDSA Pet Hospital and be in receipt of means-tested benefits (including Working Tax Credit, Child Tax Credit, JSA, ESA and PIP) or be pensioners living in houses Council Tax bands A-D.
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If not, I would certainly contact the vet again perhaps by e-mail so it's less confrontational. Or rope in a friend who can contact them on your behalf. You should not have to pay for a second consultation, only for two more pipettes of Xeno (I mean, ideally 4 but 2 is better than none) which you should just be able to collect from their dispensary and pay at the time. Worth thinking about...
 
Oh I'm so sorry to hear that. You are not alone in not being able to raise these issues, it can be difficult for anyone but impossible for some people. I do understand. And money doesn't grow on trees. You can actually get guinea pig insurance from one company at least but most people on here don't - the general opinion is that it's more useful to try and put a little bit to one side every month in a vet fund. That is because some conditions and treatments are not covered by the insurance so it's very frustrating to know you've paid it but they won't pay out!

The big question is: Did the xeno stop your piggies scratching and grinding their teeth? Do they seem better and happier in themselves since the application?

If yes then it was some sort of external parasite causing itching which has been killed - so right now they're happy, and the issue isn't urgent.



So it looks like in July the vet gave one pipette per guinea pig and presumably no repeat treatments. Which will be why they've got to this stage again. It won't be a separate infestation, it will be the same thing as before because Xeno doesn't kill off the eggs. If you can at least get a second pipette for each pig to do a second treatment after 14 days you will stand a much better chance of not having this problem repeating itself endlessly.

Do you think you might be near to / eligible for PDSA treatment? I've lifted this from their website: What we do
---------------------------------------------
Eligible pet owners
We help the pets of owners in need.

To be eligible for our free veterinary service, owners must be in receipt of means-tested help with council tax (Council Tax Support / Reduction) and live within the catchment area of a PDSA Pet Hospital.

To be eligible for our reduced cost veterinary service, owners must live within the catchment area of a PDSA Pet Hospital and be in receipt of means-tested benefits (including Working Tax Credit, Child Tax Credit, JSA, ESA and PIP) or be pensioners living in houses Council Tax bands A-D.
-----------------------------------------------
If not, I would certainly contact the vet again perhaps by e-mail so it's less confrontational. Or rope in a friend who can contact them on your behalf. You should not have to pay for a second consultation, only for two more pipettes of Xeno (I mean, ideally 4 but 2 is better than none) which you should just be able to collect from their dispensary and pay at the time. Worth thinking about...
Thanks, unfortunately since the treatment, jt only worked for a couple days as after that they were back to biting and stratching as much as before.
 
Thanks, unfortunately since the treatment, jt only worked for a couple days as after that they were back to biting and stratching as much as before.

As explained the next batch of mites need to be killed by the second treatment in the course, two weeks after the first treatment.
 
As explained the next batch of mites need to be killed by the second treatment in the course, two weeks after the first treatment.
Sorry to be so late with replying. We did try contacting the vets at the time but there was no answer when we called. So we emailed them and they only replied yesterday saying the options were either to get more Xeno 450 from them or bring them back in for a skin scrape. I don’t know what’s best.
Another awkward thing is we’ve just moved house. So i Dunno whether to stick to the same vet or move to a closer one.
 
Sorry to be so late with replying. We did try contacting the vets at the time but there was no answer when we called. So we emailed them and they only replied yesterday saying the options were either to get more Xeno 450 from them or bring them back in for a skin scrape. I don’t know what’s best.
Another awkward thing is we’ve just moved house. So i Dunno whether to stick to the same vet or move to a closer one.

Are they still scratching?
If they didn’t get the second treatment in time, then you are likely back at the beginning and need to do a new round of three treatments.
 
Are they still scratching?
If they didn’t get the second treatment in time, then you are likely back at the beginning and need to do a new round of three treatments.
Unfortunately they are. Is it best just to start again and get a new opinion at a closer vet or explain to them and continue? The thing is we’ve just moved so we are going to change our vet to one that’s not too far. As the other one Is further out for us now.
 
Do you know, in your shoes I'd be tempted to start again at a different practice. If it's the xeno-450 spot on it really has to be 3 treatments each two weeks apart, and treating both pigs at the same time. If they use a different method - injectables or something - I don't have the experience to advise on that. But good luck, because if it's mites or lice they won't go away by themselves...
 
:agr:
If you are changing vet anyway, then I would go to them and start on a new course of treatment.
You really do need a course of three separate treatments to deal with it. A treatment here and there will not cure this.

Do make sure to thoroughly clean out and disinfect the cages, use F10 to disinfect the cage and any wooden items and throw away anything which is cardboard.
 
Thank guys, I know it’s a late reply but yes there still doing it. My eyesight not great with looking close up but with Pete I’ve noticed white dots. Could only spot them on his black fur. I’m going to make sure to call the new vet up by tommorow.
 
Thank guys, I know it’s a late reply but yes there still doing it. My eyesight not great with looking close up but with Pete I’ve noticed white dots. Could only spot them on his black fur. I’m going to make sure to call the new vet up by tommorow.

how did you get on getting a vet appointment?

The dots are likely eggs
 
Let us know how you get on
I hope you can get it sorted this time round
It was good. There defiantly better than the other vets. They gave same options but I did ask for them to do the skin scrape. They said they would call between 5-7pm literally when I got back into my own house they called explaining that it’s static mites and to pick up more of the Xeno tommorow and explained about it being 3 doses.
 
I forgot to ask what the cause of static mites are? I want to know if there’s a way of preventing them in the future from coming back. The vet also mentioned about fully cleaning out the cage etc…

How high should fleece be washed to get rid of static mites (incase there’s some in the bedding)
 
I forgot to ask what the cause of static mites are? I want to know if there’s a way of preventing them in the future from coming back. The vet also mentioned about fully cleaning out the cage etc…

How high should fleece be washed to get rid of static mites (incase there’s some in the bedding)

Static mites are hay mites. They come in with hay so you can never totally prevent it, but ensuring you are getting hay from a good source can help.
Throwing away current hay, thoroughly disinfecting the cage and any wooden items in the cage with F10 solution, throwing away cardboard items.
Wooden items can be soaked in F10 solution.
Fleece needs to be washed at 60.

It would be a good idea for you to give the first treatment and then do the first thorough clean in a couple of days time. That way mites on them would have fallen off by then and can be removed by the first thorough cage clean. Then a few days after the second treatment, doing another thorough clean with f10. And the same after the third treatment

New Guinea Pig Problems: Sexing & Pregnancy; URI, Ringworm & Parasites; Vet Checks & Customer Rights
 
I don't know if this will help but, I replace the fleece liners in my cage at least every other day. When I wash it, I wash it on hot and with white vinegar and with "Free and Clear" detergent. I've read that freezing bedding before using it also helps kill anything. Lastly, I wipe down the C&C cage with disinfectant and make sure it's dry before putting the fleece in.
 
Static mites are hay mites. They come in with hay so you can never totally prevent it, but ensuring you are getting hay from a good source can help.
Throwing away currently hay, thoroughly disinfecting the cage and any wooden items in the cage with F10 solution, throwing away cardboard items.
Wooden items can be soaked in F10 solution.
Fleece needs to be washed at 60.

New Guinea Pig Problems: Sexing & Pregnancy; URI, Ringworm & Parasites; Vet Checks & Customer Rights
Thanks I recently changed my hay yesterday I get in bulk. Instead of getting it cheap from Pets at home. Incase the hay from pets at home was the cause.

What’s F10? Also what about plastic igloos?


Also I keep there carrier open in their cage as an extra hide. Would it be best to just soak that as well? Or just replace it all together?


I don't know if this will help but, I replace the fleece liners in my cage at least every other day. When I wash it, I wash it on hot and with white vinegar and with "Free and Clear" detergent. I've read that freezing bedding before using it also helps kill anything. Lastly, I wipe down the C&C cage with disinfectant and make sure it's dry before putting the fleece in.
Thanks I’ve never heard of people freezing bedding and I wasn’t sure if vinegar is safe.
 
Thanks I recently changed my hay yesterday I get in bulk. Instead of getting it cheap from Pets at home. Incase the hay from pets at home was the cause.

What’s F10? Also what about plastic igloos?


Also I keep there carrier open in their cage as an extra hide. Would it be best to just soak that as well? Or just replace it all together?



Thanks I’ve never heard of people freezing bedding and I wasn’t sure if vinegar is safe.

F10 is a vet grade disinfectant. You can buy it on Amazon. it can be best to get the concentrate rather than the ready made solution as it is cheaper and it lasts considerably longer. It also means you have the ability to make it up to differing strengths dependent upon why you need to use it -
a weaker strength for general cleaning and disinfecting. Stronger when dealing with parasites, extra strong when doing with fungal issues including ringworm

White vinegar can be used as a general cleaner and disinfectant but it is no way near as strong and effecfive as F10 is.

You can clean the plastic items with F10 also.
i use it as a deep cleaner about every six weeks or so.

Please do read the guide i linked in as it explains how to deal with hay mites
 
F10 is a vet grade disinfectant. You can buy it on Amazon. it can be best to get the concentrate rather than the ready made solution as it is cheaper and it lasts considerably longer. It also means you have the ability to make it up to differing strengths dependent upon why you need to use it -
a weaker strength for general cleaning and disinfecting. Stronger when dealing with parasites, extra strong when doing with fungal issues including ringworm

White vinegar can be used as a general cleaner and disinfectant but it is no way near as strong and effecfive as F10 is.

You can clean the plastic items with F10 also.
i use it as a deep cleaner about every six weeks or so.

Please do read the guide i linked in as it explains how to deal with hay mites
Thanks and I will read the guide
 
I’ve done what I can do so far. The treatment has to be ordered which is why I can’t pick it up till Tuesday.

However I’m getting more concerned as there not eating all there veg or pellets since this morning. ( Before they were eating half of it just Leaving some. The vet did check there teeth Friday and they were fine)

But literally gave them a cup of veg each and some pellets this morning and they only touched a few pellets and gave them there veg around 12 and since then they’ve only eaten one piece of bell pepper. I think there still eating hay. (I can’t keep a track on their weights due to the scales I had being shared so we had to leave the scales behind)
 
I’ve done what I can do so far. The treatment has to be ordered which is why I can’t pick it up till Tuesday.

However I’m getting more concerned as there not eating all there veg or pellets. I literally gave them a cup of veg each and some pellets this morning and they only touched a few pellets and gave them there veg around 12 and since then they’ve only eating one piece of bell pepper. I think there still eating hay. (I can’t keep a track on their weights due to the scales I had being shared so we had to leave the scales behind)

You will need to get some more scales. It is the only way to know they are eating enough hay as you can’t judge by eye. Even if they are still eating some hay it doesn’t mean they are eating enough and hay intake is usually the first thing they reduce during a period of illness (And consequently the reason why syringe feeding is needed)
 
Static mites and lice are such a pain and something I'm dealing with myself now. As for weighing, I think Aldi have some cheap digital kitchen scales in store at the moment so may be worth looking in there if you have one near by.
 
Static mites and lice are such a pain and something I'm dealing with myself now. As for weighing, I think Aldi have some cheap digital kitchen scales in store at the moment so may be worth looking in there if you have one near by.
Thanks and yeah, hopefully your pigs get better. I’ve got to pick up the treatment from the vets today and I’ve got 2 Aldis nearby. Might also check at Lidl.
 
Just putting in a word for P@H hay... we've never had a problem with it. When we've had mites or lice it's been brought in by a new arrival and that's happened quite a bit even when we've gotten 'healthy' lone piggies from friends. I think quite a lot of them must carry low levels of 'passengers' just as a regular thing.
 
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