Boars fighting 😟

[MargeryBaxter]

Hello, I hope some one can help me with my 2 boars who have recently started fighting. They are 4 years old and have been together since we rescued them as a bonded pair at 4 months. They have always got along with each other quite well with a bit of bickering but no serious issues. But things have escalated and both are now show injuries .

They are currently living inside in a 4x 3 c&c. We have added a ramp and balcony for enrichment and to increase the space but now the larger piggie seems to be trapping his cage mate ( who likes climbing up on top. They have several hideaways and several hay areas. They have always shared dry food and water. Their veggies are normally given to them by hand or scattered around the cage. They are happier in the summer when they have access to a large run ( and lots of grass) but it is too cold and wet here for them to be outside for at least another 6 weeks…They are pretty tame well handled family pets.

They have had bickering spells before and I have left them to resolve it as I believe that separation is a last resort and also a one way route. But the aggression now seems constant and at a much higher level. Can anyone advise me what the best plan for these two?

 

[Piggies&buns]

I’m so sorry to hear this.

I would remove the ramp and loft immediately. These items can cause problem with boars with what you are seeing by it being claimed as a territory by one pig and trapping the other pig. A ramp is effectively a one exit hide on that respect. It’s also worth nothing that upper levels do not increase space a they don’t count towards living area - space is only increased when the cage is made bigger on the single, bottom level.
However, if they are injuring each other and actually fighting it is possible that removal of the ramp may be too late to save their bond - it’s worth a try though.

If removal of the ramp doesn’t calm things pretty quickly, let’s say within 24 hours, and fights continue, then sadly it likely means the bond is in trouble and you may need a separation.

It can also be worthwhile having a vet check done or this is a bit out of the blue. Sometimes an escalation is these types of behaviours can be a symptom of a brewing medical issue - such as pain and in an older piggy arthritis can be trigger

 

[MargeryBaxter]

Thank you. I’m afraid we have had to separate them as the smaller piggie was getting attacked. Currently we have added a partition to their cage to make 2 3 x 2 c and c so they can still see and hear each other. Things have settled right down and both are chilling with hay.

Do you have any tips on how we can help their bond and relationship? Or does separation always have the be permanent? If so how is it best to manage 2 single older boars? Is it best for them to see each other? Or does this make it worse?

 

[Piggies&buns]

I’m so sorry to hear this.

Such fighting, attacks and injuries sadly does mean the separation is to be permanent.
It is unusual for a bond to fail at their age but it does occasionally happen.
In more minor squabbling, separation for a few days and a neutral territory reintroduction to allow them to decide if they want to go back together can sometimes be done but if there are actual injuries and attacks in your case then I would not advise it and would instead advise the separation it sadly permanent.

As I said, I would advise a vet check in case there is an underlying health issue.

Separated piggies must be side by side.
They still need to see each other and be able to interact with bars between them 24/7. They will be absolutely fine like that.
If you move them so they can’t see and interact then they will get very lonely.
I know it’s not nice when it happens but they will be happier apart.
The bond is one of my pairs broke and they have been separated for over two years. Their bond broke as teenagers though (they are now 2.5 years old).

The guide below will be helpful

Thread 'Boars: Teenage, Bullying, Fighting, Fall-outs And What Next?'

May 22, 2015

1 The hormonal teenage months
- What are the most difficult times?
- What are your boars' chances of making it together?
- What can help to boost your boys' chances?
- What does NOT work?
2 Fighting, bullying and when to separate
- What are the signs of a dysfunctional bond?
- How can I test whether a bond is no longer working?
- What to do if your boars had a bloody fight?
3 Life after...

• Wiebke
• Replies: 3
• Forum: Behaviour, Bonds and Species Understanding

• 

 

[MargeryBaxter]

Thank you it’s really good to know that a partition can work ok in the longer term. Given they are older piggies I don’t want to risk an aesthetic to neuter them and then would rather not introduce more piggies at this point.

 

[fluffysal]

I am one of many on here who has neighboars. In my case it was the dominant who was relieved when the divider went in as he was getting fed up living with a fear aggressive youngster. Master Boris was full of attitude, testosterone and challenge but rumblestruts ended with submissive squeals confusing poor Sir George. In the early days I noticed that all of the peeing was by the dividing grids as territory marking and there were some smelly days but yours being older this may not happen.
Mine are very happy in their separate apartments and interact a lot through the bars. I often see them "twinning" when they're doing the same thing at the same time and they're favourite place to hang out is on their side by side posing platforms.

 

[MargeryBaxter]

Thanks for all the advice on this one. We are now set up for side by side living and the piggies are so much calmer. Percy (smaller and more submissive) is much happier. Gordon (the Abyssinian) is slightly grumpy but still calmer.

We tried a bit of well supervised roaming time this morning and it went ok- although Gordon still found an area to dominate. But I am hopeful we can get them in their run together when the weather improves.

 

[Ramia]

You don't let them have floor time together

 

[Piggies&buns]

I'm glad they are ok.

I’m afraid piggies don’t do those kinds of play times. They will see each meeting as a full on bonding session whereby they will try and will fail to form a hierarchy every time. It is very stressful for them to be repeatedly put together and separated.

So now they are in separate cages I'm afraid you will need to do two separate floor times.
You will also either need to split your outdoor run in half (if each half would be big enough) or buy a second run so they can be side by side but apart at all times

I would also advise that you remove the food bowls. Instead scatter feed their veg and one tablespoon of pellets into pile of hay. Eating from a bowl removes all mental stimulation involved with foraging. It’s important you keep them mentally stimulated now they don’t live together