What cage and run and can babies go outside?

Flossieteacake

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Hi I’d like to get a pair of young Guinea pigs. What is the best and cage and run to get? I’d like to keep them outside, how old do they need to be to go outside? Do they need to come in in the winter also? Thanks
 
Welcome to the forum

Housing - For outdoor piggies you need a good, sturdy, solid hutch (ideally not made of plywood). A hutch needs to be 5 foot for a pair of sows or 6 foot for a pair of boars.

You would also need a good study run for supervised run time.

It’s not necessarily a case of age for being outside, it’s time of year, temperature and whether they are acclimatised to outdoor conditions.
Piggies who have only been indoors must be slowly acclimated to outdoor conditions and cannot be put outside fully until night times are over 15 degrees. So let’s say you were to get piggies now, they would have to be kept indoors but can go into an outdoor hutch during the day if the temperature is over 15 degrees but they would still need to be brought in at night until night time is also over 15 degrees.
Piggies who have always been outside can remain outside provided they are well protected.

Piggies are most comfortable between 18 and 20 degrees, but no lower than 15 and no higher than 25.
This means you need to be able to keep their hutch protected and warm enough in winter and cool enough in summer.
Ideally hutches are placed into an unused garage or shed from late autumn until early spring as this protects them from the elements; or piggies brought indoors during winter if it’s not possible to keep them warm enough.
Outdoor piggies need a fully insulated hutch with thermal and waterproof covers, lots of hay for bedding and microwaveable heatpads. A thermometer is also needed.

My piggies live out in my shed. The biggest issue I actually face as an outdoor piggy owner, is the heat in summer not the cold of winter. Although I do have the shed for winter and that makes a world of difference, it becomes a huge problem in summer. Hutches and sheds can very quickly over heat and become dangerous. During the height of summer, my piggies all move indoors for several weeks. As I say, 25 degrees and upwards risks heat stroke but it is also worth remembering that a sun heated breezes on cooler days can still raise temperatures inside hutches.

In terms of the getting piggies, you would do yourself well by contacting a rescue centre to rescue a pair. Doing this means you will get a well bonded, healthy pair of piggies. And in the case of females, you could guarantee they are not pregnant. If you do buy piggies from a pet shop or breeder you do need to be aware of the risks that piggies may come with health issues, sows may not have been separated from boars appropriately and you could end up finding yourself with a pregnant piggy and associated risks. Equally, piggies are just put together for sale with little to no regard for their compatibility. An incompatible pair will fight, fall out and then need to be kept separated adding to your cost in housing etc.

I’ve added a link below to the new owners section of the forum. You will find lots of guides which can help you. We are also more than happy to answer any questions

New and Wannabe Guinea Pig Owners Corner
 
When you get a cage and run, make sure the wire has small gaps that young piggies cannot squeeze through. I had to ‘baby proof’ one of my older runs with small grid wire to stop them escaping - and from the cats getting their paws through!
 
Welcome to the forum

Housing - For outdoor piggies you need a good, sturdy, solid hutch (ideally not made of plywood). A hutch needs to be 5 foot for a pair of sows or 6 foot for a pair of boars.

You would also need a good study run for supervised run time.

It’s not necessarily a case of age for being outside, it’s time of year, temperature and whether they are acclimatised to outdoor conditions.
Piggies who have only been indoors must be slowly acclimated to outdoor conditions and cannot be put outside fully until night times are over 15 degrees. So let’s say you were to get piggies now, they would have to be kept indoors but can go into an outdoor hutch during the day if the temperature is over 15 degrees but they would still need to be brought in at night until night time is also over 15 degrees.
Piggies who have always been outside can remain outside provided they are well protected.

Piggies are most comfortable between 18 and 20 degrees, but no lower than 15 and no higher than 25.
This means you need to be able to keep their hutch protected and warm enough in winter and cool enough in summer.
Ideally hutches are placed into an unused garage or shed from late autumn until early spring as this protects them from the elements; or piggies brought indoors during winter if it’s not possible to keep them warm enough.
Outdoor piggies need a fully insulated hutch with thermal and waterproof covers, lots of hay for bedding and microwaveable heatpads. A thermometer is also needed.

My piggies live out in my shed. The biggest issue I actually face as an outdoor piggy owner, is the heat in summer not the cold of winter. Although I do have the shed for winter and that makes a world of difference, it becomes a huge problem in summer. Hutches and sheds can very quickly over heat and become dangerous. During the height of summer, my piggies all move indoors for several weeks. As I say, 25 degrees and upwards risks heat stroke but it is also worth remembering that a sun heated breezes on cooler days can still raise temperatures inside hutches.

In terms of the getting piggies, you would do yourself well by contacting a rescue centre to rescue a pair. Doing this means you will get a well bonded, healthy pair of piggies. And in the case of females, you could guarantee they are not pregnant. If you do buy piggies from a pet shop or breeder you do need to be aware of the risks that piggies may come with health issues, sows may not have been separated from boars appropriately and you could end up finding yourself with a pregnant piggy and associated risks. Equally, piggies are just put together for sale with little to no regard for their compatibility. An incompatible pair will fight, fall out and then need to be kept separated adding to your cost in housing etc.

I’ve added a link below to the new owners section of the forum. You will find lots of guides which can help you. We are also more than happy to answer any questions

New and Wannabe Guinea Pig Owners Corner
Welcome to the forum

Housing - For outdoor piggies you need a good, sturdy, solid hutch (ideally not made of plywood). A hutch needs to be 5 foot for a pair of sows or 6 foot for a pair of boars.

You would also need a good study run for supervised run time.

It’s not necessarily a case of age for being outside, it’s time of year, temperature and whether they are acclimatised to outdoor conditions.
Piggies who have only been indoors must be slowly acclimated to outdoor conditions and cannot be put outside fully until night times are over 15 degrees. So let’s say you were to get piggies now, they would have to be kept indoors but can go into an outdoor hutch during the day if the temperature is over 15 degrees but they would still need to be brought in at night until night time is also over 15 degrees.
Piggies who have always been outside can remain outside provided they are well protected.

Piggies are most comfortable between 18 and 20 degrees, but no lower than 15 and no higher than 25.
This means you need to be able to keep their hutch protected and warm enough in winter and cool enough in summer.
Ideally hutches are placed into an unused garage or shed from late autumn until early spring as this protects them from the elements; or piggies brought indoors during winter if it’s not possible to keep them warm enough.
Outdoor piggies need a fully insulated hutch with thermal and waterproof covers, lots of hay for bedding and microwaveable heatpads. A thermometer is also needed.

My piggies live out in my shed. The biggest issue I actually face as an outdoor piggy owner, is the heat in summer not the cold of winter. Although I do have the shed for winter and that makes a world of difference, it becomes a huge problem in summer. Hutches and sheds can very quickly over heat and become dangerous. During the height of summer, my piggies all move indoors for several weeks. As I say, 25 degrees and upwards risks heat stroke but it is also worth remembering that a sun heated breezes on cooler days can still raise temperatures inside hutches.

In terms of the getting piggies, you would do yourself well by contacting a rescue centre to rescue a pair. Doing this means you will get a well bonded, healthy pair of piggies. And in the case of females, you could guarantee they are not pregnant. If you do buy piggies from a pet shop or breeder you do need to be aware of the risks that piggies may come with health issues, sows may not have been separated from boars appropriately and you could end up finding yourself with a pregnant piggy and associated risks. Equally, piggies are just put together for sale with little to no regard for their compatibility. An incompatible pair will fight, fall out and then need to be kept separated adding to your cost in housing etc.

I’ve added a link below to the new owners section of the forum. You will find lots of guides which can help you. We are also more than happy to answer any questions

New and Wannabe Guinea Pig Owners Corner
 
Thanks! Would they manage the ramp that goes with them?

Some piggies will, some wont. You would need to line the ramp for grip, ensure sides are added (they won’t use it if they feel exposed) and ensure the ramp isn’t too steep.

You do not need a double storey hutch though. Piggies are ground roaming creatures who need their living space to be on a single level (and to be big enough in a single level as upper levels do not count towards the cage size in any event).

We would advise to not get a hutch which has a run attached below it as they can be difficult to access and are difficult to move, a lot more expensive and therefore a waste of the piggies cannot use a ramp. Plus they can only have access to grass when it is warm enough each day and dry.
 
Thanks, so how do you give them access to the outside? Do you just keep them in a hutch and then put them in the run in the morning? I’m worried that just being in a hutch they will get bored and will be too small for them but if they can’t get out of the run they are stuck until you can put them back in the hutch?
Or am I overthinking this! Thanks. I just want to give them the best environment possible!
 
You transfer them to and from the run. If the hutch is big enough they will be fine. Try and go for as big as possible. The more space the better is always the motto.

You can still offer enrichment inside the hutch and it’s not likely they’ll get bored. Mine don’t come out of the hutch until summer when they have a run around.
 
Thanks, so how do you give them access to the outside? Do you just keep them in a hutch and then put them in the run in the morning? I’m worried that just being in a hutch they will get bored and will be too small for them but if they can’t get out of the run they are stuck until you can put them back in the hutch?
Or am I overthinking this! Thanks. I just want to give them the best environment possible!

Yes exactly that - I put them in and out when I am there to supervise their lawn time and to ensure the temperature remains suitable etc

However any grass time needs to be built up slowly so you can’t put them out for long to begin with anyway as too much grass on unprepared tummies can make them ill - it’s about 5-10 minutes at a time, building it up slowly over a matter of weeks.

They should not get bored because enrichment should be provided plus they have each other.
I’ve added the enrichment guide below - the best enrichment is lots of hay in the hutch for them to play, but also hides (wooden is best for outdoors, no fleece should be used as it doesn’t dry properly outdoors and plastic gets too hot)

I start picking grass and hand feeding it to them in their hutches from around February to get them used to it and then build up the amount they get. From April or May when it is warm and dry, I start giving them 10-15 mins on the lawn at a time, building it up by 10-15 minutes a week until they can be out for up to 14 hours a day when I am at home. I always provide hay when they are in their run to balance the amount of grass they eat

Enrichment Ideas for Guinea Pigs
Feeding Grass And Preparing Your Piggies For Lawn Time
 
Thank you that’s so helpful!

QUOTE="Piggies&buns, post: 2812853, member: 130015"]
Yes exactly that - I put them in and out when I am there to supervise their lawn time and to ensure the temperature remains suitable etc

However any grass time needs to be built up slowly so you can’t put them out for long to begin with anyway as too much grass on unprepared tummies can make them ill - it’s about 5-10 minutes at a time, building it up slowly over a matter of weeks.

They should not get bored because enrichment should be provided plus they have each other.
I’ve added the enrichment guide below - the best enrichment is lots of hay in the hutch for them to play, but also hides (wooden is best for outdoors, no fleece should be used as it doesn’t dry properly outdoors and plastic gets too hot)

I start picking grass and hand feeding it to them in their hutches from around February to get them used to it and then build up the amount they get. From April or May when it is warm and dry, I start giving them 10-15 mins on the lawn at a time, building it up by 10-15 minutes a week until they can be out for up to 14 hours a day when I am at home. I always provide hay when they are in their run to balance the amount of grass they eat

Enrichment Ideas for Guinea Pigs
Feeding Grass And Preparing Your Piggies For Lawn Time
[/QUOTE]
 
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