• Discussions taking place within this forum are intended for the purpose of assisting you in discussing options with your vet. Any other use of advice given here is done so at your risk, is solely your responsibility and not that of this forum or its owner. Before posting it is your responsibility you abide by this Statement

Weight and Weight Loss Explained: BMI, Weighing, Poos and Feeding Support

Status
Not open for further replies.

Wiebke

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
90,041
Reaction score
80,818
Points
3,466
Location
Coventry UK
1 Weight and Weight Loss
- Why regular weight monitoring matters

- How weight changes over a lifetime
- How to weigh on your kitchen scales (with video)
- The weight loss rules
- How critical is the weight loss for my piggy?
- Possible causes for weight loss

2 Body Mass Index (BMI) or 'Heft'
- Why is understanding your piggy's weight so important?

- 'Average' weight vs. individual weight - the big trip up
- How to check for the BMI

3 The Weekly and the Daily Weigh-in
- What the life-long weekly weigh-in and body check does for you

- When to switch to weighing once daily
- Anxiety: The obsessive hovering trap

4 'Poo-ology' vs. Weighing
- What can poos tell you and what not?

- Poos vs. weighing: Why you need both
5 Levels of Feeding Support
- Which food group are you replacing?

- Topping up and Full Feeding support explained
- What to have at home vs what to order in
- Improvising in an emergency

6 First Aid and Guide for Vet Visit Urgency
- Guide to how soon to see a vet
- Spotting early signs of illness and pain
- First aid care measures and non-medication products

- All-in-one emergency care advice and resources link


This guide aims to address some common misconceptions and sources of panic. It also helps you make the best use of all methods both in health as well as in illness by understanding what each of them can do and what not.
It is a compilation of various in-depth guides that are touching on weight and weight loss issues in different ways; the full guides are linked into the relevant chapters to help you access further practical care information and how-to advice.


1 Weight and Weight Loss
Why regular monitoring matters
Checking your guinea pig's weight and body once a week will give you a handle on any gradual changes before they become a major problem.
You get to know your piggy much better and get a better insight into what is normal for them and what not.
Especially if you suffer from anxiety or other mental health issues, it can help to take pictures of the various body parts (including the underside of the feet) and to update the folder once a year so you can use that as a reference.
Keep in mind that your piggies weight and body will gradually change over the course of a lifetime.
Weight Monitoring and Management
Guinea pig body quirks - What is normal and what not?

How to weigh your piggy on your kitchen scales

Normal cheap digital or mechanic kitchen scales are perfectly adequate for weight monitoring because you are monitoring changes but you do not need a fully correct weight, unlike a vet who has to compute the correct medicine dosages.
This link here shows you the safest and least stressful way to weigh your guinea pig with a video:

How weight changes over a life time
Guinea pigs don't weigh the same all life long. Age is always another factor that should be taken into consideration.
- Guinea pig have a fast growth phase with mostly steady weekly weight gain until they are about 4-6 months of age. The cut-off point is dependent on their genetically determined ideal weight. The more you feed the sooner they will reach this cut-off point.
- Then they continue to grow in ever wider spaced spits and spurts until they are about 15-18 months of age. Overfeeding will increasingly result in overweight and is no longer fully converted to pure growth.
- The peak of their life (and weight) is at around 2-3 years of age; they are at their natural heaviest (often borderline overweight) and at their most reluctant to lose any weight. Overfeeding with food and treats can result in a life shortening build up of yellow fat around the major organs, which is also a major factor in bad operation outcomes.
- Mature piggies from about 4-5 years onward start to gradually lose weight; their muscles will gradually lose tone so the hipbones and spine and eventually the ribs will become more prominent. However, any sudden or any major slow weight loss should be vet checked.
- The very old can become mere bags of skin and bones as their metabolism gradually slows down and their weight drops. Some plucky souls can however hang on for a surprising length of time.

The weight loss rules
Any weight loss needs to be seen on the background of your piggy's age, their actual weight and whether their weight/size ratio (their BMI) is normal, underweight or overweight.
When a 700g piggy loses 100g it is quite simply not the same compared to whether a 1400g piggy loses the same amount. In the first case this is a major weight loss but in the second - especially if they are overweight - it can just mean that they have dumped some yellow fat. That is why you need to know more about your piggy than just their weight or the weight loss in order to interpret it appropriately and know how urgently you need to see a vet.

Here are the guidelines along which you can judge whether and how quickly you need to see a vet.
If in any doubt, please see a vet sooner rather than later. In an emergency, please make an appointment first before asking us!

- 30-40g / 1 oz: Normal daily weight swing
Any weight gain or loss within this band does not count because the difference between a full bladder and a full gut and an empty bladder and gut can be up to 40g and because the weight is swinging in this bandwidth over the course of 24 hours.
- 50g / 2 oz: Go on alert!
Switch to weighing daily at the same time and book a vet appointment if the weight loss continues. See a vet within 24 hours if a guinea pig is losing this amount within 24 hours (i.e. 'promptly') and step in with syringe feeding top up. If the weight loss is much slower but steady, see a vet during regular opening hours within a week, ideally as soon as you can get an appointment during regular opening hours.
- 100g / 3 oz: See a vet as an emergency if the weight loss has happened within in 1-2 days!
If your guinea pig has lost 100g within 24 hours, it has not eaten or drunk at all during this time and is in acute danger of dying.
See a vet or emergency service at any time of the day or night ASAP!

Step in with syringe feeding and watering if your guinea pig can still swallow and process food. Never simply empty a syringe full into the mouth of a severely ill guinea pig!

Emergency, Crisis and Bridging Care until a Vet Appointment
All About Syringe Feeding and Medicating Guinea Pigs with Videos and Pictures

If a major weight loss has gradually happened over a period of weeks or months, please see a vet during regular opening hours within a week.

A sudden unexplained weight gain especially in older piggies also needs to be investigated; it could be caused by a fluid build up in the body due to a failing heart.

How critical is the weight loss for my piggy?
In order to put the weight loss into the right perspective for your own piggy, it helps to think of it in terms of a percentage of the normal weight and checking whether they are still overweight or already underweight - that is where your regular weekly health checks and knowing your piggy's BMI really come into their own.
Overweight piggies tend to drop weight initially a lot more quickly because of what is coming off is their yellow fat reserves. When looking at the rules below you have to factor that in and check their BMI first to see where they actually stand.

The rule of thumb
- 5-10% loss of healthy body weight: This a weight loss that is significant enough to be vet checked but it is not yet concerning. Your piggy should not feel badly underweight and may even feel a perfect weight in an overweight piggy; they should still have plenty of fighting strength. Adapt your feeding support to whether they are still partially eating or not. See a vet during regular opening hours but book an appointment now.
- 20-30% loss of healthy body weight: This is a concerning loss weight; your piggy will be feeling clearly underweight now. Please see a vet promptly (i.e. within 24 hours) as an emergency if at all possible. Your piggy will need treatment and medication as quickly as possible. They will also need round the clock feeding and care support to have a chance of getting through the crisis.
- 30-50% loss of body weight: Your piggy has hit their bottom weight; they cannot lose any more because all fat and muscle have gone now; what's left is all bones, organs and skin. They are fighting for their lives and need to see a vet asap to be in with a small chance.
Emergency and Crisis Care as well as Bridging Care until a Vet Appointment
A Practical and Sensitive Guide to Dying, Terminal Illness and Euthanasia in Guinea Pigs

Possible causes for weight loss
- Access to food and water bottles blocked; undrinkable water/empty or blocked bottles; new or spoiled food.

All About Drinking And Bottles
- Sudden larger temperature changes or extremes (both heat and frost); heat stroke side effects (GI stasis)
Please contact a vet asap if you suspect heat stroke!
Hot Weather Management, Heat Strokes and Fly Strike
Cold Weather Care For Guinea Pigs
- Poisoning and environmental aspects
When all or several piggies suddenly present with the same not weather related symptoms then chances are high that you are dealing with environmental problem. Check your gas alarm; poisonous plants (fox gloves!), fresh dog pee on the lawn, paint, possible predator or rodent attacks etc.
Species jumping diseases typically pass through groups in stages from one to others but usually not all at once.
Contact a vet promptly.
- Inability to eat, chew, swallow or process food (Dental problems, oral thrush, blockage or GI stasis)
Wiebke's Guide to Tummy Trouble
- Pain, illness and infections
This is the most common group and it means a trip to the vet.
Signs of Pain in Guinea Pigs
- Metabolic diseases
This group includes hyper-thyroidism, diabetes, kidney and liver problems and very rare Cushing disease. In old piggies with in increased appetite but continuing weight loss it also indicates a metabolic problem in an organ.
You will need vet diagnosis and medication (if possible - it is a new area for guinea pigs) but support can include the longer term need for a little top up feed.
- Mystery weight loss
Weight loss without any helpful symptoms is the trickiest for any vet to work out. In my own experience there can be so many different, often way out there issues behind it. Diagnostic tools have massively improved but there are still limits. Patience, support feeding and trying to manage any symptoms is often the only way forward until things become clearer.
A guinea pig cannot tell you whether they have a headache, a vague general pain or queasiness in the body. They are also wired to suppress any symptoms for as long as possible, often to an astonishing degree; not rarely until it is too late. :(

A guinea pig with major weight loss is already a very ill guinea pig.
 
2 Body Mass Index (BMI) or 'Heft'
Why is understanding your piggy's weight so important?

Without knowing whether your piggy is a good weight, overweight or underweight interpreting any weight loss is difficult because it can be very misleading. A smaller weight loss in an underweight piggy is much more serious than a larger initial weight loss in an overweight piggy where the yellow fat build up comes off rather quickly before any muscle mass is affected.
A small piggy that is overweight can fall into the normal range whereas a large underweight piggy can be judged as overweight if you or our vet only look at the weight and not at the condition. This can have some major long term implications.

'Average' weight vs. individual weight - the big trip up
'Average weight' is a human mathematical concept which arbitrarly declares half of the subject matter that is being looked at as 'not average' by definition. Far too many owners and even vets not experienced with guinea pigs equal this falling outside of the big lump in the middle as 'not healthy' - but not being one of the main field in the middle has nothing whatsoever to do with health or life expectancy; it only decribes that they with the part of the field that is more spread out, nothing more.

Newborn baby weights can range from 40g -120g; that is a three times difference in size and weight that very often carries on during life with the weight and size gaps actually widening. But crucially it doesn't say anything about health or longevity - that is determined by genes as much as by good care.
My only adoptee who lived to celebrate her 8th adoption anniversary was a 40g baby needing a helping hand in her first days - yet she survived both her two normal sized litter sisters who I adopted with her.

Adult weight can range from ca. 700g-1800g although the big 'average' huddle in the middle fall around 900-1100g. But as long as a piggy is a good healthy weight for their individual size, there is quite simply nothing wrong with them.
I have had piggies who just about touched 800g in the prime of their lives and who felt pretty stout doing it whereas my largest boar was naturally borderline underweight at 1500g. Both extremes lived to 8 years of age. Just to prove the point!

I currently have got two runts who have stopped growing at 6 months of age at just short of 600g. They are turning 3 years old now and are perfectly healthy in themselves so far.

How to check for the BMI
Feeling the 'heft' around the ribcage it is a good way of judging whether your guinea pig is a good weight for his individual size. It just takes a few seconds during a cuddle on your lap or as a part of the weekly body check.
This complements the weekly weigh-in because the heft tells you whether the individual weight/size ratio is OK and your guinea pig is perfectly healthy in themselves or whether they are over- or underweight at any stage of life, irrespective of what the scales are telling you.

This method also helps you assess very quickly how serious any sudden weight loss is for your own piggy. Are they still well padded or can you feel all ribs? You can easily disguise a casual rib and spine check during a cuddle. It helps to put the numbers on the scales into the correct perspective.

You best feel for the BMI around the ribcage
- Ideal weight:
You should be able to just about feel the ribs, but not individually.

- Underweight: You can feel every single rib.
- Severe underweight: The ribs are all standing out from the chest and the spine has no flesh on it at all.

- Overweight: You cannot feel the ribs at all.
- Obesity: If you can feel rolls of fat and your piggy's belly is touching the floor they are are severely overweight and likely to face health issues as a result.


This chart may also help you to get a quick idea whether you are dealing with a noticeably underweight or overweight piggy although it is always good to check around the ribs since different breeds have naturally different body shapes and body sizes/natural weights vary a lot more than expected. Rexoid breeds are for instance more compact and long hairs can easily hide a multitude of sins.
1698623053184.jpeg

Source (for a free download): Guinea Pig Size-O-Meter

Please don't be tempted to do a 'quick fix' by feeding calorific foods for a better weight; these empty calories will comes off again as quickly as they go on. For a sustainable weight gain the underlying causes need to be addressed. Your piggy needs any necessary veterinary treatment, your patience and a good quality diet for their sustainable recovery.

For more information on dealing with long term underweight or overweight please see our comprehensive Weight Guide, which looks at everything weight related (including exercise and treats): Weight - Monitoring and Management
 
3 The Weekly and the Daily Weigh-in
What the life-long weekly weigh-in and body check does for you

Please weigh once weekly in combination with a quick top-to-toe health check throughout the whole life of your guinea pigs.
If possible, note down your weights and any small body changes, like the appearance of a small lump. Your log can help your vet when assessing any developing health issues and in making their decisions. Taking pictures of the normal features to serve as your reference can help you spot changes, especially if you have anxiety or memory issues. I would recommend to refresh the pictures in your folder every 12 months in order to account for age related body changes.
Guinea pig body quirks - What is normal and what not?

Please keep in mind that over 80% of what your guinea pigs eat in a day is hay. You cannot control this just by watching a guinea pig nibbling slowly on a stalk or chewing on some crud in its cheeks. If you only judge the food intake by how your guinea pigs eat their veg (one tenth of what it should eat!), you can easily miss a massive weight loss because hay is often the first food group that is impacted when your guinea pig is in pain or not feeling well. Guinea pigs are ever so good at hiding any illnesses until it is often nearly too late or sadly can be too late sometimes, like all prey animals. That is where weighing once weekly is really coming into its own!

When to switch to weighing once daily first thing in the morning
Switch to weighing daily at the same time of the feeding cycle (ideally before you feed veg or pellets) if your guinea pig is suddenly looking thinner, ill or is not eating properly.
Because the weight is fluctuating around 30-40g (ca. 1 oz) in a weigh band over the course of 24 hours depending on how full the bladder and the tummy are, weighing at the same time in the feeding cycle will help you to eliminate these fluctuations as much as possible.
I find weighing either first thing in the morning or before serving the evening veg the best times.
The weight is at its lowest, which makes for best day to day comparison and you can also plan any feeding support frequency/level for the coming 24 hours; in case of total loss of appetite this also includes reserving sleeping time for yourself if this drags on for more than 1-2 nights.
When weighing more than once a day, you will have to factor in this weight bandwidth. Especially if you have anxiety/control issues, please ask a partner or family member to weigh your guinea pig for you. Weighing too often will not help your guinea pig and will only increase your anxiety. Recovery and illness support is always somewhat of an up and down; that is why you have to think in in weight bands with a general trend rather than in absolute weights.

We are speaking of weight loss or weight gain only when the difference is beyond this daily weigh swing bandwidth , i.e. when the loss/gain is 50g/1 oz or more.

We would be very grateful if you please could give any weight in grams if you have a weight/health connected problem. We have members from all over the world. Using grams prevents any confusion and misunderstandings for anybody.
Here is a link for converting UK and US pounds into grams: Pounds to Grams conversion

Anxiety: The obsession trap
It is very easy for anxious owners to hover, looking out for the smallest symptoms or unusual behaviours and to weigh any ill piggies several times a day. Unfortunately the more often you weigh, the more the weight will jump around, which will only serve to fan your anxiety which will then transmit to your piggy...

If at all possible, please delegate the weighing and health checking to another member of your household, friends or family.

You can find lots of very practical advice for yourself as well as your support field in this guide here:
 
4 'Poo-ology' vs. Weighing
What can poos tell you and what not?

Poos can never give you an up to date picture of how much your piggy is eating on their own or whether your feeding support is adequate because it takes 1-2 days for any food to make their way from one end to the other. That means that poos can only ever show you the past.

What they can give you an insight on is what could be going on in the gut - is there a disturbance or not? How serious is it? Is your guinea pig recovering and are their poos normalising again?
This guide here contains a bit of a guide to what the various poos can tell you:

Poos vs. weighing: Why you need both
The scales do not lie and always give you an up to date feedback on your piggy’s actual food intake.

Since over three quarters of what a piggy eats in a day is hay - which you cannot control by eye - the scales are your best ally in getting your piggy through an illness/operation recovery and to tailor the necessary support according to their current food intake. Just watching a piggy pick up a stalk of hay or two, or chewing on some cud in their mouth can be very misleading when in fact they have already lost most of their appetite and have started losing weight very quickly. Eating a little veg is like nibbling on a bit of biscuit - but nothing else.

You have that one precious and sometimes crucial extra day to react sooner to loss of appetite by weighing than you have by just watching poos. Poos can however tell you better whether your piggy could be deydrated, reacting to antibiotics or new foods; whether a problem is located inside the gut or is just impacting on the gut (pain, pressure etc.)
 
5 Levels of Feeding Support
Which food group are you replacing?

Since hay is the biggest food group and usually the most impacted it is the one you need to replace with your feeding support. Anything that contains hay fibre is ideal and should be our first choice of substitute although that is not lways possible in every country.
Not Eating, Weight Loss And The Importance Of Syringe Feeding Fibre


Topping up and Full Feeding support explained
How much you need to support feed depends on how much feed you can get into your piggy in one session.

Crisis Care: Total loss of appetite and serious illness
Aim at 40-60 ml in 24 hours, feeding 5-10 ml (or as much as you get in) every 2 hours during the day. Only give about 0.1-0.3 ml at once and wait until your piggy has swallowed. Offer water in between syringe feeds as with reduced food intake there is a higher risk of dehydration. Please see a vet promptly and make sure that they check for dehydration in a crisis.
Your priority is to slow down any weight loss and ideally stabilise the weight once meds are kicking in.

Support and Recovery Care: Partial loss of appetite
Aim at 60-90 ml in 24 hours (ca. 100 ml is what a healthy adult eats in a day), feeding 10-20 ml per session in about 4-5 sessions over 24 hours. Check the frequency with your scales; if your piggy is still losing weight you need to feed more, if they are stable or gaining you are OK.

Topping Up: Weight gain recovery or longer term metabolic/dental support or end of life care
You can either offer top up feed via syringe (many piggies will however no longer like them once they regain their appetite), via spoon or a bowl for those extra calories.
Plain porridge oats, recovery fare, mushed pellets or any mix thereof will work. A little crushed banana in the mix can also help as an appetiser for recovering piggies but is not recommended as a long term daily food for guinea pigs with metabolic or dental weight issues.
Terminally ill piggies are best fed from a bowl or a spoon if you want to avoid to fall into the trap of having to make the decision when to cut off full-time feeding care to no prolong any unnecessary suffering. Giving the piggies the choice of how much they want to eat gives them the power to tell you when their life comes naturally to an end.

PS: If your piggy is unable to swallow, too weak to feed or fighting the syringe far in excess of their remaining strength because they can no longer process any food, they may be dying.
A Practical and Sensitive Guide to Dying, Terminal Illness and Euthanasia in Guinea Pigs

What to have at home vs what to order in
Please always have 1 ml syringes (several) and a small medicine bottle at home.


We recommend to have some basic probiotics at home but unless you have plenty of piggies to rather improvise with mushed up pellets and order any recovery formula and enhanced probiotics in whenever needed. These products are not cheap but have a relatively short shelf span so they are generally mostly wasted.

Improvising in an emergency
Here is our very practical guide to things you can do with what you have at home or easily available from a supermarket or a pharmacy. It doesn't replace any necessary vet trips but it serves to keep your piggies going until any ordered products arrive and any medication can do their work.
 
6 First Aid and Guidelines for Vet Visit Urgency

Guide to how urgently to see a vet


Spotting early signs of illness and pain
Early Signs Of Illness
Signs of Pain in Guinea Pigs

First aid care measures and non-medication products
First Aid: Easily available non-medication products and immediate care advice
How to Improvise Feeding Support in an Emergency

All-in-one emergency resources and care advice link
We have a one stop emergency information collection where you can find everything you need, from potentially dealing with a vet not experienced with guinea pigs (list of safe and unsafe mediations), feeding care with guinea pigs, crisis care, support for piggies that are not moving much, selected illness advice and end of life support:

Please open an ongoing support thread in our monitored Health/Illness section if you have any concerns.
This forum is UK based.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top