Unlimited pellets?

Cue

Junior Guinea Pig
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Please don’t skin me alive, just here me out here. So all of my piggies, and my mom’s piggies before me, have had unlimited pellets. I’ve seen everywhere that they’re supposed to have only a tablespoon or so a day… why? What’s the reason for this?

Our girls are a healthy weight (one is a bit thin, but she’s very old and might just be “sagging” like her Momma did) and probably don’t eat more than a tablespoon each even with unlimited pellets; they leave food alone if they aren’t hungry and come back and get it later. They’ll easily go through 5-10 cups of hay together in a day. Is there a genuine, proven reason why I shouldn’t be doing this?
 
We won’t skin you alive! We are always happy to have a conversation.
Advice has come on a lot probably since your mum had piggies. It was the norm that dry food was the mainstay. It doesn’t mean it was actually healthy for them then or now, it’s just that we didn’t know any different.
We do know now and all we can do as owners is keep up with current research and advice. If you know the current advice provided by reputable sources and still choose to do something else then that is your decision to make. Our role is to provide the up to date information.

There are many reasons why pellets should be kept limited.

Pellets are (obviously) not the thing a piggy is designed to eat given they are human invention.
Pellets were created as a cheap way to feed up animals quickly to make them ready for the meat market.
Things may have changed in their formulation to provide a balance of nutrients but the fact remains they are not the thing they need to be in their diet in any quantity.

Their main diet needs to be hay and grass as they need long fibre for gut and dental health.
A low pellet diet (or no pellets at all) means they fill up on plenty of hay, grass, wild foraged plants (veg taking the role of wild forage for most owners) and is the healthiest way their body is designed to function.
Having access to too many pellets can cause them to not eat enough hay. Even if they are still eating some, it doesn’t mean it is enough.
Lack of hay and grass can lead to dental problems. It’s hay and grass which contain the silica which is needed to keep teeth grinding and wearing properly and evenly. Pellets go mushy in the mouth so don’t provide any way of maintaining dental health.
Lack of fibre can lead to bloat. Their gut needs to be digesting long hay fibre constantly.

They can lead to unhealthy weight gain and obesity.
You may say well my piggies are maintaining their weight. Piggies will maintain/put on weight with pellets but it’s the equivalent of you maintaining/putting on weight by eating primarily chocolate bars - it’s the wrong kind of weight.

Pellets do not meet all their fibre needs and the ingredients are often not all appropriate. You may feed a food quality pellet but it doesn’t mean everybody is. There are many brands of pellet on the market which contain a lot of fillers, cereals and other ingredients which piggies don’t need/should not have. Somebody else might think what’s the harm but actually their piggy then ends up with problems due to filing up on something which their body isn’t designed to handle in large quantities.

All pellets contain a lot of calcium. Keeping a good balance and not allowing too much calcium and oxalates in their diet will help reduce the risk of bladder problems and stone formation. There is a local element to it, as calcium also comes into the diet via drinking water and the US doesn’t have the issues with hard water like we have in the UK, but it is still a wise move to look at the balance and ensure you are feeding your piggies the right amount of calcium for their needs and not seeing lots of powdery white deposits in their urine.

It’s odd that you say they eat 5-10 cups of hay together in a day. It should not really be possible to know that.
I don’t know how many piggies you have but if it’s two and you are saying you get through 10 cups of hay a day so 5 cups each, then it doesn’t sound like very much.
Out of curiosity, I’ve actually just been out with my cup measure and, while it is not easy/possible to measure hay in cups, I have done my best. 5 cups of hay amounted to roughly the quantity one of my piggies would eat in just a few hours which is considerably less than the amount they normally get through in a day. Even if I gave one piggy 10 cups of hay, it still doesnt look like it would be enough for 24 hours.

You say they leave pellets alone and then go back to it later - that is the issue. If hungry they should go to hay and not have the ability to just fill up on pellets. The equivalent is asking a child if they want fruit or a bag of sweets for their snack - they’re going to choose the sweets!

I feel that feeding a diet as close to natural as possible is never a bad thing. My piggies and rabbits are fed lots of hay, grass (they can be on the lawn 12-14 hours a day and I pick grass for them also), wild foraged foods and are given veg. They get dried forage most days instead of pellets.
With pellets, the piggies get less than one tablespoon of pellets each and they only get them just three times a week. I feed 100% grass pellets. They are considered a treat rather than food here.

Long Term Balanced General And Special Needs Guinea Pig Diets
 
I used to feed way too many nuggets when I was younger to my piggies.
I had two dull, obese piggies. They even got checked out by a vet to rule out medical issues, but they could not find anything wrong.

Only in the coming years did I learn about the 1tbsp rule and I do believe I caused the issue with my boys.
I think the issue is that your pigs will survive and potentially be fine on a unlimited pellet diet, but it would be the equivalent of me eating only chicken nuggets for the rest of my life, I’ll survive but my body won’t be getting all the nutrients it needs.

You have been given some fantastic practical and factual advice above, but I wanted to add my experience with such.
We definitely won’t skin you alive, that’s the great thing about this forum, we can speak and have genuine conversations about something we all love… Piggies!
 
I agree with everything written above.
Just want to add that pellets are pretty bad for guinea pig teeths and jaws, because they have to bite on them and that's not a natural movement of the jaw. A guinea pig's jaw is built to grind grass (or hay or leavy veggies), because wild piggies mostly eat grass and wild herbs.
So a nutrition that is as close as possible to natural, is best for the guinea pig's jaw and teeth (and it's overall health).
 
Hi and welcome

This forum is here so we can all join in on our ongoing journey and quest to improve the lives and health of our piggies. Welfare is not a static concept but a life-long learning curve we are all on. The goal posts are moving all the time.

Welfare also doesn't mean that only the best is good enough but that we can all make smaller and larger improvements within our own personal means and situations. We do not judge what has happened before you found us; we are here to help and to support you on your own future welfare journey in a practical and pragmatic way. It is our forum ethos to provide a friendly and supportive community.

Our knowledge about guinea pigs, including especially nutrition, medication and behaviour/species needs has developed massively over the last 15 years and the process is still ongoing, thanks to more research being finally done on guinea pigs. Cheap pellets used to be the main source of food instead of the all important hay fibre in the post-war years; all long term owners used to have them constantly on offer because we didn't know how crucial grass fibre was for the dental and digestive system and through that for a stronger immune system, better health and a longer life. Or how the dental system in rodents and lagomorphs actually really worked (including lots of vets).

Can I just add that the life expectancy of my own guinea pigs has on average improved 1-2 years since I have started to limit my pellets roughly a decade ago from the lower end to the upper end or even beyond (medical/genetic issues in younger piggies excepted). Despite my piggies being adoptees and a fair percentage of them having come out of true hellholes themselves or being born to newly rescues malnourished/neglected mothers, most of them have been able to live just as long a life span as shop bought piggies and not a few of them have reached 7-8 years of age instead of 4-5 years. The average life expectancy for mass produced for sale/adoption piggies is about 5-6 years.

It is never too late to improve the quality of life for your pets. You cannot change the past but you can always strive to make the future better. :)

PS: You may find our very practical information resource very interesting and helpful since we have come along quite a way in more recent years. You may want to bookmark the link, browse, read and re-read at need as you will pick up on different things at different levels of experience: Comprehensive Owners' Practical and Supportive Information Collection

We use the information links for all the little how-to tips, practical advice and in-depth information that we cannot type out in full in every post since we are all doing this for free in our own free time.
 
We won’t skin you alive! We are always happy to have a conversation.
Advice has come on a lot probably since your mum had piggies. It was the norm that dry food was the mainstay. It doesn’t mean it was actually healthy for them then or now, it’s just that we didn’t know any different.
We do know now and all we can do as owners is keep up with current research and advice. If you know the current advice provided by reputable sources and still choose to do something else then that is your decision to make. Our role is to provide the up to date information.

There are many reasons why pellets should be kept limited.

Pellets are (obviously) not the thing a piggy is designed to eat given they are human invention.
Pellets were created as a cheap way to feed up animals quickly to make them ready for the meat market.
Things may have changed in their formulation to provide a balance of nutrients but the fact remains they are not the thing they need to be in their diet in any quantity.

Their main diet needs to be hay and grass as they need long fibre for gut and dental health.
A low pellet diet (or no pellets at all) means they fill up on plenty of hay, grass, wild foraged plants (veg taking the role of wild forage for most owners) and is the healthiest way their body is designed to function.
Having access to too many pellets can cause them to not eat enough hay. Even if they are still eating some, it doesn’t mean it is enough.
Lack of hay and grass can lead to dental problems. It’s hay and grass which contain the silica which is needed to keep teeth grinding and wearing properly and evenly. Pellets go mushy in the mouth so don’t provide any way of maintaining dental health.
Lack of fibre can lead to bloat. Their gut needs to be digesting long hay fibre constantly.

They can lead to unhealthy weight gain and obesity.
You may say well my piggies are maintaining their weight. Piggies will maintain/put on weight with pellets but it’s the equivalent of you maintaining/putting on weight by eating primarily chocolate bars - it’s the wrong kind of weight.

Pellets do not meet all their fibre needs and the ingredients are often not all appropriate. You may feed a food quality pellet but it doesn’t mean everybody is. There are many brands of pellet on the market which contain a lot of fillers, cereals and other ingredients which piggies don’t need/should not have. Somebody else might think what’s the harm but actually their piggy then ends up with problems due to filing up on something which their body isn’t designed to handle in large quantities.

All pellets contain a lot of calcium. Keeping a good balance and not allowing too much calcium and oxalates in their diet will help reduce the risk of bladder problems and stone formation. There is a local element to it, as calcium also comes into the diet via drinking water and the US doesn’t have the issues with hard water like we have in the UK, but it is still a wise move to look at the balance and ensure you are feeding your piggies the right amount of calcium for their needs and not seeing lots of powdery white deposits in their urine.

It’s odd that you say they eat 5-10 cups of hay together in a day. It should not really be possible to know that.
I don’t know how many piggies you have but if it’s two and you are saying you get through 10 cups of hay a day so 5 cups each, then it doesn’t sound like very much.
Out of curiosity, I’ve actually just been out with my cup measure and, while it is not easy/possible to measure hay in cups, I have done my best. 5 cups of hay amounted to roughly the quantity one of my piggies would eat in just a few hours which is considerably less than the amount they normally get through in a day. Even if I gave one piggy 10 cups of hay, it still doesnt look like it would be enough for 24 hours.

You say they leave pellets alone and then go back to it later - that is the issue. If hungry they should go to hay and not have the ability to just fill up on pellets. The equivalent is asking a child if they want fruit or a bag of sweets for their snack - they’re going to choose the sweets!

I feel that feeding a diet as close to natural as possible is never a bad thing. My piggies and rabbits are fed lots of hay, grass (they can be on the lawn 12-14 hours a day and I pick grass for them also), wild foraged foods and are given veg. They get dried forage most days instead of pellets.
With pellets, the piggies get less than one tablespoon of pellets each and they only get them just three times a week. I feed 100% grass pellets. They are considered a treat rather than food here.

Long Term Balanced General And Special Needs Guinea Pig Diets
I love this very clear and detailed explanation. Would have taken me forever to write!
 
I read this post but I still have a question. I apologize if the information I am seeking was written somewhere above and I missed it. I, even before I took them home the adoption center and fattened them up a bit noticed that my board are big. Bigger than all my friends who have Guinea pigs. I was wondering if I should give them more pellets because they’re larger.
 
I read this post but I still have a question. I apologize if the information I am seeking was written somewhere above and I missed it. I, even before I took them home the adoption center and fattened them up a bit noticed that my board are big. Bigger than all my friends who have Guinea pigs. I was wondering if I should give them more pellets because they’re larger.

No you should not give them more.
It is one tablespoon per pig per day only.
The only food they need in unlimited amounts is hay.

If you would like more personalised advice regarding your piggies, their diet, their routine weekly weight checks including how to check their heft then the guide below will help you, but do start your own thread on this if you would like further advice and we can help you specifically

Weight Monitoring and Management
 
That is exactly what I was looking for. I always sort of assumed pellets were just compacted hay. I’ll take them out and start rationing them with their breakfast.

As for hay, it’s sort of an estimate (a bad estimate), because they get a LOT of it but sort of pack it down throughout the day as they go through looking for the good bits. I just want healthy and happy girlies. I have noticed over time that my piggies have always seemed… larger than other pigs. Not in a particularly unhealthy way, but they have big dewlaps. I always ask the vets (who are great vets), do these girls seem overweight or headed that way and they always say no, so I just assumed the pictures I see online have weird piggie beauty standards or something. My mom loves piggies as much as I do. She rescued her first from her lab at med school, his name was Puffin.
A lot of assumptions I suppose. Maybe I should stop doing that.

In other news, how do I make sure each one gets their share? One of them is far older and has no top incisors so it takes her a bit to get stuff. And should I expect some slight weight loss, or just changes to how their Chubb is positioned?
 
You are looking for a pellet which has timothy hay/grass as it’s main ingredient but commercial brands contain lots of other things as well - some of those other items are good, provide nutrients and have a valid reason for their inclusion, others aren’t and are instead there to ‘bulk‘ it out.

You don’t make sure they get their share as such. You scatter one tablespoon of pellets per pig per day into their hay and let them forage for it. Some piggies will inevitably get more some days, less other days.

If you are worried you can make sure they get their share by hand feeding each pellet to them by way of a bonding experience. As I said, none of my boys get pellets daily but when they do have them they only get about 10 pellets each so hand feeding each one (I have four piggies) isn’t time consuming or tedious and is instead an enjoyable part of the day/time to spend with them.

Yes you probably will see weight loss initially, but ensure lots of hay is available as they should start filling up on that.

Do you check your piggies heft yourself?
 
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I do check their Chubb and weights myself, but the vets do it at their checkups as well. I think letting them forage sounds like a great idea. We use oxbow pellets, they’re the best easily available around here.
 
I do check their Chubb and weights myself, but the vets do it at their checkups as well. I think letting them forage sounds like a great idea. We use oxbow pellets, they’re the best easily available around here.

No sorry, not their weight, my question was do you check their heft (piggy BMI)? Heft is how you determine whether they are a healthy size, not with their weight.

Weight Monitoring and Management

Allowing them to forage through hay to find their pellets and veg is also great way to keep them occupied and use their natural abilities.
 
No sorry, not their weight, my question was do you check their heft (piggy BMI)? Heft is how you determine whether they are a healthy size, not with their weight.

Weight Monitoring and Management

Allowing them to forage through hay to find their pellets and veg is also great way to keep them occupied and use their natural abilities.
Yes that’s what I meant by chubb! Ever since I learned that trick I’ve been using it very often. I usually casually check them whenever I’m holding them. They’re all within a healthy heft IMO: a thin layer of fat over the general shape of a ribcage. They actually feel just like me!

Interestingly enough, my tiny tiny foster and other perma-pig who’s weight I’m potentially concerned about feel exactly the same. Exactly. It’s soothed my nerves a bit.
 
I think some pigs will not become obese even if they have ad lib pellets, while others will.

However, here's a perspective on it: we got one of our previous pigs from a rescue in Perth (now closed, sadly), and we would go up there now and then to donate old newspapers. We noticed that her guinea pigs were absolutely HUGE - not fat, but just big. We would joke that they were like draught excluders, and we used to say that you could tell she was an expert by how huge and healthy her pigs were.

Well, we only learned about the 1tbsp per day rule when we had our last pigs, who were already adults. Our current pigs have been on that limited pellet supply since they were little, meaning they eat a lot of hay - and they are huge. Huge, shiny, fluffy, healthy pigs, like plush draught excluders. I can't stop admiring them.

I think we found her secret. Guinea pigs are grazers. They do best on hay, so the more hay you can get them to eat, the more they will thrive. And restricting pellets is an important part of that.
 
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