Static Mites :( Prevention advice

[muddledfloof]

Hi all,

Just been health checking my piggies and noticed some static mites, confirmed via microscope assessment (yes I am a nerd). Sadly both my boars have quite the infestation - I'm not sure why I haven't spotted it sooner, and I am gutted. Thankfully they seem to be ok, skin isn't red or inflamed and they only appear to be slightly more itchy than usual. I am going to book them a vet appointment (RIP my bank balance) asap to get a proper health check and treatment, and hopefully that will help.

Thinking ahead, how can this be prevented? They are seasonal pigs, outside from May to September and inside the remainder of the year. They live in a very large cage, have lots of "outside" time and get a very balanced diet (nuggets + veg daily). They live on fabric bedding, which I wash with Kavee disinfectant and detergent on a hot wash. They only natural "Substrate" they have is timothy feeding hay (we use the natures own brand, we buy from Jolleyes in the UK).

Clearly they have gotten these mites from the hay, which is heart-breaking because I was led to believe that natures own is a very good hay brand (and I note it is recommended on the forum here under the UK hay providers section). I always check the bags of hay for visible mites before giving, but mites are hard to see. I currently store the hay in the plastic bags they come in, should I be emptying them into something else? do I need to freeze or heat the hay? Do I need to change the hay brand? (I hope not, I have just bought a 2 months supply as I buy in bulk).

Also are there any spot on treatments that can be purchased to prevent mite infestations for my piggies in the future? Like how cats have a monthly flea spot on, is there anything similar for piggies, or something I can bathe them in regularly to prevent mites? Also what disinfectant do you recommend for fabric bedding and the plastic cage materials?

TLDR: how do I prevent my pigs recontracting static mites
1) do I need to be doing something to the hay (better storage, heating or freezing it to kill mites?)
2) Can the pigs be treated with a spot on/regular shampoo to prevent infestations?
3) What disinfectant should I use for the cage (plastic) & fabric beddings?

I would really appreciate the help - thanks in advance.

 

[Piggies&buns]

These are known as hay mites.

In short, there is nothing you can or should do to prevent it.

Preventative spot ons should never be used. They are weak dosed, won’t cure and will actually lead to resistance forming meaning you’d be doing more harm than good. Same for shampoos, they won’t stop mites and repeated bathing will damage your piggies skin.

You don’t need to freeze or heat the hay.
Throw out the current bag of hay though.

Use F10 disinfectant to clean

The guide below explains further

Thread 'New Guinea Pig Problems: Sexing & Pregnancy; URI, Ringworm & Parasites; Vet Checks & Customer Rights'

Jun 24, 2018

1 Double-checking the gender upon arrival
- Sexing
- Pregnancies and surprise babies
2 When to quarantine new companions?
3 Vet visits
- Health check/registration upon arrival
- Reclaiming vet cost for newly bought ill guinea pigs
4 Common illnesses in new guinea pigs
- Ringworm
- Respiratory infection (URI)
5 List of guinea pig...

• Wiebke
• Replies: 1
• Forum: New and Wannabe Owners Corner

• 

 

[Wiebke]

I am very sorry. My own piggies are on Nature's Own meadow hay (both normal and sweet) without any issues and have been for coming up to two years. You can never fully prevent it; just give your piggies a weekly weigh-in, body onceover, boar bits check (if needed) and grooming session. parasites can multiply very quickly, so please do not beat yourself up. Hay mites use the underlay hairs first that you cannot see at a casual glance.

Preventative ivermectin is too low-dosed to do the job add will only add to the growing resistance problem. We do not recommend it.

What I have done with a major infestation is to cut off all affected hairs right down to a small stubble. I know it is drastic but it removes nearly all the eggs and a lot of the skin and bum debris that hay mites live on in on fell swoop so you will have a lot less mites and mites-to-be to deal with medically. It reduces the problem instantly.
Never underestimate low tech even if it is unsightly. What you can remove mechanically you do not have to treat chemically. The hair will grow back within about 4 weeks; by which time the actual mites should be under control and only need a last round of mopping up any stragglers. Keep the hairs checked for egg cases once weekly and cut them out if wished. The less insecticides get into our rivers the better, and the ivermectin will get there via peeing on the fleece.

Just throw out the hay bag and contact Nature's Own.

Then you treat with vet grade spot on (xeno) three times at the recommended interval and according to their weight.

All the best.

 

[muddledfloof]

These are known as hay mites.

In short, there is nothing you can or should do to prevent it.

Preventative spot ons should never be used. They are weak dosed, won’t cure and will actually lead to resistance forming meaning you’d be doing more harm than good. Same for shampoos, they won’t stop mites and repeated bathing will damage your piggies skin.

You don’t need to freeze or heat the hay.
Throw out the current bag of hay though.

Use F10 disinfectant to clean

The guide below explains further

Thread 'New Guinea Pig Problems: Sexing & Pregnancy; URI, Ringworm & Parasites; Vet Checks & Customer Rights'

Jun 24, 2018

1 Double-checking the gender upon arrival
- Sexing
- Pregnancies and surprise babies
2 When to quarantine new companions?
3 Vet visits
- Health check/registration upon arrival
- Reclaiming vet cost for newly bought ill guinea pigs
4 Common illnesses in new guinea pigs
- Ringworm
- Respiratory infection (URI)
5 List of guinea pig...

• Wiebke
• Replies: 1
• Forum: New and Wannabe Owners Corner

• 

Thanks so much for this! All really helpful advice.

I've ordered the lice & easy shampoo, but I'm not going to use it until my pigs have seen the vet and had their treatment first.

I've bought some F10 from Amazon, and hopefully that should arrive soon and the current bag of hay will be going!

Do you think it makes a difference with them being in a wooden hutch outside. We do hybrid so outside in a large wooden hutch in the summer and inside in a kavee C&C in the winter. I worry that the wooden hutch cannot be properly disinfected? Do you think it's best to move them into the C&C early this year to make the whole disinfecting process easier as they go through treatment or will they still be ok outside?

Makes total sense prevention wise, won't be using any spot ons then as I know how big the issue is with resistance in cats & dogs currently and I don't want that for my piggies too.

 

[muddledfloof]

I am very sorry. My own piggies are on Nature's Own meadow hay (both normal and sweet) without any issues and have been for coming up to two years. You can never fully prevent it; just give your piggies a weekly weigh-in, body onceover, boar bits check (if needed) and grooming session. parasites can multiply very quickly, so please do not beat yourself up. Hay mites use the underlay hairs first that you cannot see at a casual glance.

Preventative ivermectin is too low-dosed to do the job add will only add to the growing resistance problem. We do not recommend it.

What I have done with a major infestation is to cut off all affected hairs right down to a small stubble. I know it is drastic but it removes nearly all the eggs and a lot of the skin and bum debris that hay mites live on in on fell swoop so you will have a lot less mites and mites-to-be to deal with medically. It reduces the problem instantly.
Never underestimate low tech even if it is unsightly. What you can remove mechanically you do not have to treat chemically. The hair will grow back within about 4 weeks; by which time the actual mites should be under control and only need a last round of mopping up any stragglers. Keep the hairs checked for egg cases once weekly and cut them out if wished. The less insecticides get into our rivers the better, and the ivermectin will get there via peeing on the fleece.

Just throw out the hay bag and contact Nature's Own.

Then you treat with vet grade spot on (xeno) three times at the recommended interval and according to their weight.

All the best.

Great advice thank you so much.

Daft question, what do you use to cut their fur? I think this is a great idea, but I'm so worried about nicking them as they wiggle (mine are proper wigglers, it's a nightmare cutting their nails as they just wiggle wiggle).

I have to admit I have been very lax on the health check front for the past couple of months, so it's likely how it has gotten out of control. Plus both my pigs are dark coloured, so it was only really noticeable when I started grooming them today in broad daylight and there was a lot of flecks. Life has been so busy, and because of the nice weather they have been out in their run most of the day happily, so by the time it's spot clean time it's nearly dark and much harder to see any issues when I health check them and give them a brush. Definetly a learning curve and something to make sure I double check in the future.

 

[Wiebke]

Great advice thank you so much.

Daft question, what do you use to cut their fur? I think this is a great idea, but I'm so worried about nicking them as they wiggle (mine are proper wigglers, it's a nightmare cutting their nails as they just wiggle wiggle).

I have to admit I have been very lax on the health check front for the past couple of months, so it's likely how it has gotten out of control. Plus both my pigs are dark coloured, so it was only really noticeable when I started grooming them today in broad daylight and there was a lot of flecks. Life has been so busy, and because of the nice weather they have been out in their run most of the day happily, so by the time it's spot clean time it's nearly dark and much harder to see any issues when I health check them and give them a brush. Definetly a learning curve and something to make sure I double check in the future.

You can use scissors (I did as I as I wanted them gone asap) but clippers will look tidier.

This guide has videos and pictures.

Thread 'An Illustrated Guide to Hair Cutting'

Apr 22, 2020

1 Why and when are haircuts necessary?
- Why are haircuts necessary?
- Which areas need the most attention?
- What is the purpose of a short summer haircut for long-haired guinea pigs?
2 Pre-cut bathing
- No baths, bum baths or full baths?
- Bathing tips
3 Haircut preparation
- What you need for a haircut
- Scissors or small dog clippers?
- Tips for unruly or skittish piggies
-...

• Betsy
• Replies: 7
• Forum: Grooming Care

• 

It just helps to reduce the problem to a level where you start feeling you can get on top of it and it can't get as bad as they were when you discovered it.

 

[Wiebke]

PS: You won't be cutting if you use blunted scissors if you have worries.

 

[Piggies&buns]

Thanks so much for this! All really helpful advice.

I've ordered the lice & easy shampoo, but I'm not going to use it until my pigs have seen the vet and had their treatment first.

I've bought some F10 from Amazon, and hopefully that should arrive soon and the current bag of hay will be going!

Do you think it makes a difference with them being in a wooden hutch outside. We do hybrid so outside in a large wooden hutch in the summer and inside in a kavee C&C in the winter. I worry that the wooden hutch cannot be properly disinfected? Do you think it's best to move them into the C&C early this year to make the whole disinfecting process easier as they go through treatment or will they still be ok outside?

Makes total sense prevention wise, won't be using any spot ons then as I know how big the issue is with resistance in cats & dogs currently and I don't want that for my piggies too.

No it doesn’t make any difference. Mine live outside in a shed year round. They used to be in wooden hutches in the shed but due to certain circumstances now are in c&c in the shed. I have always disinfected my hutches with F10
- spray it in and it does get into the wood and properly disinfects them. It is a very good product!

Whether you move them back indoors earlier than normal is up to you