Should they see each other prior to introductions

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MrsSuzy

MrsSuzy

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I am so excited to say I have collected gorgeous Lola from the rescue centre yesterday. I have set her up temporarily in a 3 x 2 C&C cage in a different room from where I have my other girls.

According to good practice I will quarantine her for a couple of weeks. However, she has been in the rescue for a bit over a month now and hasn't displayed any signs of illness so all should be good.

I have read loads about introductions but just wanting some advice regarding the time leading up to introductions: should I move her cage next to my girls cage so they start getting to know each other before introductions? I have read conflicting opinions on this so keen to see what you think.

Thank you so much in advance.
 
How exciting :) As far as I am aware, a guinea pig from a rescue shouldn't need quarantining for long although I could be wrong on that. I have never quarantined and all my pigs bar one are rescue.

I suggest you put Lola's cage next to your other girls so they can see, talk to and smell each other through the bars.

I recently adopted a neutered boar to live with my 3 girls. I placed him in a cage and then put the cage in the shed with my girls overnight (They live in a free range shed) so they could get to know each other with out having physical contact.

I bonded them the next day and Enoch was living with the girls permanently within 24 hours of him arriving as the introductions went so well.

Obviously this may not be the case for you but it would still be good for them to be 'together' rather than Lola in another room.
 
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Hi!

Incoming guinea pigs should undergo a quarantine as a matter of course at any good standard rescue; ask whether she has done so. Quarantine is usually only necessary if you get your piggy from a place where you know that this has not been the case or that the standard of care is not good enough. Sows from a good rescue should also have passed a 10 week pregnancy watch to make sure that they are not pregnant if there is the least doubt that they could have been in contact with a boar.

Please let the piggies get to know each other by living next door to each other for at least a day or two, if necessary for longer. See how they react and time your intros accordingly - you need as much time in one go for the intros on neutral ground proper as you can get, so your girls can hopefully work through acceptance (should happen within the first 20 minutes) well into the dominance sort out (which will take several days or even weeks).
It may not help with the ultimate issue of her fitting in (that is character based and there is only so much you can do apart from calling it a day if you happen to have two dominant sows who are not will to step down to the detriment of any other piggies). However, getting the newbie used to her new routine, surroundings and her new friends will minimise additional stress factors for the introduction and the likelihood that she goes on overload during the intro and becomes aggressive whenever she feels cornered or frightened. If you feel that tensions are building up within the whole group or the tension level remains very high even after a few hours, please separate and try again on the next day (or as soon as you can). You may find that things are noticeably calmer then.
Only transfer your piggies to their neutralised cage when you are reasonably sure that they can deal with the inevitable renewal of the dominance display in their territory without the risk of things blowing up. Please be aware that the dominance phase - although though not pleasant to watch - is essential for establishing the new group hierarchy and coherence, and that unlike you, the piggies know the script!

Here is a collection of tip for introductions frm our refernce section: http://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/...FAQ-Introducing-and-reintroducing-guinea-pigs
Sow behaviour: http://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/showthread.php?38561-Sow-behaviour
Boar behaviour (contains a list of aggressive behaviours; any mild to medium aggression you have to live with): http://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/showthread.php?28949-Boars!-Simple-Dominance-Displays-or-Fighting
 
Hi. I have recently introduced a rescued neutered boar to one of my sows who lost her cage mate in February. I obviously quarantined him for a while then I split a large puppy pen down the middle so that they could get to know each other through the wire for a couple of weeks. I placed their food bowls each side of the wire too and also swapped their bedding and boxes over each night so that they got used to each others smells before.

I must admit I then took them to my friends house (she has bonded more piggies than me) to be introduced and she had them there for a couple of days. They have now been together properly for over a week now. We had a lot of shenanagans on Sunday and yesterday, but it appeared that Mavis was in season as Wilfred has his wicked way for much of the evening!!

I have made sure that there is also 2 of everything - beds, bowls, bottles etc. I have also spread their greens and treat hay around so there can be no arguments over food etc.

Hope that this helps.
 
Wiebke said:
Hi!

Incoming guinea pigs should undergo a quarantine as a matter of course at any good standard rescue; ask whether she has done so. Quarantine is usually only necessary if you get your piggy from a place where you know that this has not been the case or that the standard of care is not good enough. Sows from a good rescue should also have passed a 10 week pregnancy watch to make sure that they are not pregnant if there is the least doubt that they could have been in contact with a boar.

Please let the piggies get to know each other by living next door to each other for at least a day or two, if necessary for longer. See how they react and time your intros accordingly - you need as much time in one go for the intros on neutral ground proper as you can get, so your girls can hopefully work through acceptance (should happen within the first 20 minutes) well into the dominance sort out (which will take several days or even weeks).
It may not help with the ultimate issue of her fitting in (that is character based and there is only so much you can do apart from calling it a day if you happen to have two dominant sows who are not will to step down to the detriment of any other piggies). However, getting the newbie used to her new routine, surroundings and her new friends will minimise additional stress factors for the introduction and the likelihood that she goes on overload during the intro and becomes aggressive whenever she feels cornered or frightened. If you feel that tensions are building up within the whole group or the tension level remains very high even after a few hours, please separate and try again on the next day (or as soon as you can). You may find that things are noticeably calmer then.
Only transfer your piggies to their neutralised cage when you are reasonably sure that they can deal with the inevitable renewal of the dominance display in their territory without the risk of things blowing up. Please be aware that the dominance phase - although though not pleasant to watch - is essential for establishing the new group hierarchy and coherence, and that unlike you, the piggies know the script!

Here is a collection of tip for introductions frm our refernce section: http://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/...FAQ-Introducing-and-reintroducing-guinea-pigs
Sow behaviour: http://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/showthread.php?38561-Sow-behaviour
Boar behaviour (contains a list of aggressive behaviours; any mild to medium aggression you have to live with): http://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/showthread.php?28949-Boars!-Simple-Dominance-Displays-or-Fighting
Click to expand...

I'm experiencing big problems trying to bond Minnie with my 3 piggies Minky, Mother & Mousey. I've been posting on the "Bonding Minnie" thread. Last night it was so bad that I've decided to suspend the bonding. I originally tried Minnie with the other piggies individually & she has settled with Minky for a week. From reading what other members have said I decided to go for it yesterday & put them altogether in a neutral run with a large pile of grass in the middle because I know that eating together helps. It was not too bad at first with a bit of rumbling and chasing. This progresses into fur being pulled.

The 2 main protagonists were Mother (Alpha female) & Minnie (new girl). Mother wasn't too bad but Minnie kept trying it on & then there would be fighting and chasing with Minky & Mousey trying to keep on the sidelines but both being attacked by Mother & Minnie. They were like 2 demons. I tried to persevere but after 3 & 1/2 hours it was too upsetting.

I took them out & put them in pairs in their run & they settled down. This morning they had hardly eaten their veggies so just topped up the things they had eaten. I put a pile of grass in the centre of the run (either side of the barrier) & they ate together like old friends. I don't know what to do now so will probably keep them in the 2 pairs & maybe no put them together again until it's warm enough to put them in the portable run on the lawn. I would have like to get them together as a group sometime but at present it seems an age away.
 
Basically I would answer yes to your question. I think it's a very good idea to place the cages side by side, so they can get to know each other before proceeding with formal introductions. :)
 
Thank you so much for all you replies, fantastic advice! :)

I have now moved Lola's cage next to the other one. There's been a lot of air sniffing so far, eheh.
 
A few days in and I have to say not much has happened. Both cages are side by side and I'm sure they know there's a piggie next to them, even though the coroplast is about 4inch high.
There has been a lot of air sniffing but that is it. Is this normal?

Also, how long, ideally, should I keep them like this before introductions?
 
They certainly know that they have neighbours!

If you have the time, bond them over the weekend, when you have hopefully two days you can devote to the bonding and to keeping a constant eye on them. Never hurry a bonding in process; piggies take their own time and try to interfere as little as possible, even if you are itching! Guinea pigs need to spell everything out in full detail, where we humans can get by with a hint.

Could you remove the separating coroplast/correx temporarily and let them meet more directly through the grids? Or do you have some spare grids (a little pen of four will do) or a traditional cage top you can place the newbie in to meet and sniff safely on neutral ground pre-bonding (something for tonight)? I have found that this can help with bonding a single piggy and help you to gauge the reactions.

The best place for bonding is often the kitchen or bathroom - anywhere they cannot disappear in a nook or cranny and that you can wipe afterwards. At worst, you can use your bathtub with a big towel on the ground for grip. My favourite location is underneath the kitchen table; the table gives them an added sense of security.
 
Thank you so much, you're a star!

Other than a dentist appointment lunch time I'll be home all day tomorrow so might do it in the afternoon. How long should they be together in a neutral place? Couple of hours?

Have to say I'm a bit nervous about it :/
 
Thank you so much, you're a star!

Other than a dentist appointment lunch time I'll be home all day tomorrow so might do it in the afternoon. How long should they be together in a neutral place? Couple of hours?

Have to say I'm a bit nervous about it :/
 
Not sure why last post posted twice, sorry about that. And sorry about posting again, I'm just so excited and nervous about this :o

So I got home from work and set to lower coroplast from both cages and set them side by side. Immediately everyone was interested in everyone. There was a lot of piggie good chatting noises and just about 10 sec teeth chatering (which might be a good sign?) What they are doing is chewing the grid bars furiously, both the girls and Lola and they re doing it a lot.

Edit to that: And just as I posted that there was a bit more teeth chatering :^-
 
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I wouldn't worry about the teeth chattering as this is a sign of dominant behaviour. Teeth chattering is only a cause for concern if it is persistent along with signs of aggressive behaviour such yawning (showing teeth), constant swaying of the hips and lunging.

The more interested they are in each other, the better.
 
My introductions are in motion... I am so nervous. One hour in there's teeth chattering every now and again and some nudging and nips that take tuffs of hair. Lola (new pig) is being very subservient and not showing any signs of dominance. My undersow Dahlia has yawned but to Lola's back?! (We distracted her straight away).

Wht should I do? I'm so nervous! :(
 
Just see how it goes. Teeth chattering is normal and nothing to worry about. Believe me it all looks worse then it is and I know how horrible it is to see one piggy being made subservient. The fact it has been one hour and no fighting is a very good sign.
 
Thank you so much piggyfan. You are right, it is horrible to watch (I'm in semi-tears). Both my top sows (I don't think they ever managed to agree which one is boss) are still giving Lola a good few chases around, mounting and I suspect some nips (no blood visible though). The squeals from Lola are so hard to bear :0

She stays still in one corner and is not fighting back in any way. How do I know they have accepted her? I'm dreading night time when I have to sleep and won't be watching.
 
Once they are all calm. Have you tried putting down food for them to all eat together? That can really help.
 
Yes, I tried food but Bitsy and Itsy seems to be more interested in not letting Lola eat than eat themselves :/

They have calm periods but they last about 5 min. Then a bit more chasing, mounting, nipping, then a bit of calm.

I never thought it would be so dramatic. @)
 
It really is very dramatic. I do find that when you have three there can be a bit of bullying going on. I really hope they all get along.
 
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