Question On Bonding!

[Pomelo]

Hello! Thanks for helping me out!

I have one adult, male, unneutered guinea pig in a huge cage. He's extremely docile and happy... but I've noticed that over time he's seemed kind of lonely. I know pigs should always be kept together, but I just didn't have the money.

Now I've saved up enough, and I'm wondering if I can introduce a bore pup to my adult? Do they have to be fixed first? My mother is intent on believing that pigs have to be fixed or they will just fight constantly. After I have researched I've noticed that a lot of successful bonds aren't fixed at all. So... is it necessary?

Before, when I Spiffy (my adult bore), he came with another bore (almond.) But the second was a jerk... It got so bad that he ripped my babies ear in half! It was a tad tragic. We had to give Almond back to the pet store because it was getting dangerous. Was the problem that they weren't fixed?

So confused!

 

[Moe]

Two unfixed boars can absolutely live together!
Almond may have been fighting with poor Spiffy because they were both dominant or maybe they had space issues in the past. Generally, boars need more space than sows. My advice to you is to keep the introductions slow. As your pup grows older he might go through a "teenager" phase so expect some squabbling along the way Being neutered has little to do with why the two were fighting.
Good luck!

 

[Jesse's pigs]

As said above, neutering a guinea pig isn't like neutering a dog or rabbit etc. All neutering a guinea pig does is prevent babies- it does nothing to ease aggression. it is a common misconception however.
I agree that you should get a friend. My two boars are both still 'unfixed' and live quite contently together.

Now you have a couple of options when getting your piggy a friend:

1- how old is your boar? I would say a guinea pig of age 4+ would be quite happy with another male/female older pig as his hormones will have died down and he'll be alot calmer. An older piggy could come from a rescue centre (well any of them could.) And your piggy might be able to choose his own friend.

2- a female 'pig wife'. The great thing of having a neutered boar is that you can introduce a female without worry of having babies. Boars will likely take to females a little easier but like boars you can just as easily get a dominant sow who might be tricky to bond.

3- a baby boar or female is likely to bond very well with a piggy who is under 2 years I'd say because the older piggy is likely to feel less threatened and easily say "I'm boss".

Now when introducing any guinea pig bare in mind it must be done in a neutral space and cannot be rushed. Introductions should be given plenty of time with the guinea pigs having a number of hours to get to know one another. Food should be provided like veg or a pile of hay to help ease the tension and get both guinea pigs together. Toys or houses can be added bit must have two entrances so a guinea pig can always escape- I personally didn't add houses.

Bonding can look a little rough at times. Expect mounting (it is normal), rumbling, nipping, chasing and wheeking lots of wheeking lol. It can get quite dramatic in cases- my Steve (the white one in the profile picture) was wheeking nonstop when ever Mo got close but I realised that it was only him submitting to Mo. Now do not worry about an older boar mounting a baby. It looks a bit rough but trust me no one is getting hurt! My Mo literally covered Steve when he mounted him lol. And remember babies are more agile than older boars and can get away.

Once you feel they are getting on and been given time together in the neutral space clean out the cage totally so it doesn't smell of either piggy and is literally new. Rearrange the toys etc so the cage is seen as a new place. Expect the mounting etc to begin again now the setting has been changed.

Tips on bonding:

1- if their is blood separate immediately or if they show signs of aggression. I.e lunging, biting etc. Don't separate unless their is aggression or blood!

2- it can get quite loud and people can think a piggy is being hurt. Try not to think that and let it play out. I was the same when I heard Steve constantly squeaking but it's normal.

3-space. Make sure their cage is big enough for two guinea pigs. Especially if you opt for another boar.

4- bare in mind that occasionally bindings can fall out. Though a baby will be easy to introduce now, when he/she reaches the hormone stage then you will likely see the mounting etc start up again as now they are trying to be dominant.

5- don't be tempted to get another guinea pig if you do get another boy. Two boys are fine but trios are always likely to fall out.

Any other questions feel free to ask there is a great thread on bonding I advise you check out that gives more tips.

 

[Wiebke]

Hello! Thanks for helping me out!

I have one adult, male, unneutered guinea pig in a huge cage. He's extremely docile and happy... but I've noticed that over time he's seemed kind of lonely. I know pigs should always be kept together, but I just didn't have the money.

Now I've saved up enough, and I'm wondering if I can introduce a bore pup to my adult? Do they have to be fixed first? My mother is intent on believing that pigs have to be fixed or they will just fight constantly. After I have researched I've noticed that a lot of successful bonds aren't fixed at all. So... is it necessary?

Before, when I Spiffy (my adult bore), he came with another bore (almond.) But the second was a jerk... It got so bad that he ripped my babies ear in half! It was a tad tragic. We had to give Almond back to the pet store because it was getting dangerous. Was the problem that they weren't fixed?

So confused!

Hi!
Guinea pigs are social animals that are not wired to live on their own. They have got a very complex social interaction and often become withdrawn when they lack the round the clock interaction and stimulation from their own kind.

Boars can live together happily. However, it doesn't necessarily work when you chuck just two boars together; not every baby is actually accepted. The key to any successful guinea pig bond is mutual liking and character compatibility.

Between ca. 4-14 months of age, guinea pigs go through a very hormonal teenage stage when they suddenly stop being cute little babies. During this stage, they need lots space to be able to get away from each other. Next to not being personality matched, lack of space is the second biggest trigger of fights and bullying.

Neutering boars does not change their personality, their social interactive behaviour, and it doesn't stop the production and emission of testosterone, as my own neutered boars can amply testify! All it does is take away the ability to make babies. It is only necessary if you are planning to keep your single boar with a sow or two after a further 6 weeks' safety wait until all sperms in the tubes have died off. Cross gender bondings are generally the safest and most stable of all bonds, but they also rely on mutual liking and - even more crucial - on finding a good vet for the neutering operation in order to minimise the still very common risk of post-op complications.

Please take the time to carefully read these guides here. You will find that they discuss in much greater detail all the possible options for you with the pros and cons for each, so you can make as informed a decision as possible. If you have access to one of the recommended good standard rescues, please go that way as you will avoid all the problems that you have to take into account else. Links to recommended rescues and vets in several countries are supplied in one of the guide.
Boars: A guide to successful companionship.
Boars: Bullying, Fighting, Fall-outs And What Next?
(explains the phases of puberty and what options you have with single or fallen-out boars, including rescue and vet links)
Illustrated Bonding / Dominance Behaviours And Dynamics

 

[Pomelo]

As said above, neutering a guinea pig isn't like neutering a dog or rabbit etc. All neutering a guinea pig does is prevent babies- it does nothing to ease aggression. it is a common misconception however.
I agree that you should get a friend. My two boars are both still 'unfixed' and live quite contently together.

Now you have a couple of options when getting your piggy a friend:

1- how old is your boar? I would say a guinea pig of age 4+ would be quite happy with another male/female older pig as his hormones will have died down and he'll be alot calmer. An older piggy could come from a rescue centre (well any of them could.) And your piggy might be able to choose his own friend.

2- a female 'pig wife'. The great thing of having a neutered boar is that you can introduce a female without worry of having babies. Boars will likely take to females a little easier but like boars you can just as easily get a dominant sow who might be tricky to bond.

3- a baby boar or female is likely to bond very well with a piggy who is under 2 years I'd say because the older piggy is likely to feel less threatened and easily say "I'm boss".

Now when introducing any guinea pig bare in mind it must be done in a neutral space and cannot be rushed. Introductions should be given plenty of time with the guinea pigs having a number of hours to get to know one another. Food should be provided like veg or a pile of hay to help ease the tension and get both guinea pigs together. Toys or houses can be added bit must have two entrances so a guinea pig can always escape- I personally didn't add houses.

Bonding can look a little rough at times. Expect mounting (it is normal), rumbling, nipping, chasing and wheeking lots of wheeking lol. It can get quite dramatic in cases- my Steve (the white one in the profile picture) was wheeking nonstop when ever Mo got close but I realised that it was only him submitting to Mo. Now do not worry about an older boar mounting a baby. It looks a bit rough but trust me no one is getting hurt! My Mo literally covered Steve when he mounted him lol. And remember babies are more agile than older boars and can get away.

Once you feel they are getting on and been given time together in the neutral space clean out the cage totally so it doesn't smell of either piggy and is literally new. Rearrange the toys etc so the cage is seen as a new place. Expect the mounting etc to begin again now the setting has been changed.

Tips on bonding:

1- if their is blood separate immediately or if they show signs of aggression. I.e lunging, biting etc. Don't separate unless their is aggression or blood!

2- it can get quite loud and people can think a piggy is being hurt. Try not to think that and let it play out. I was the same when I heard Steve constantly squeaking but it's normal.

3-space. Make sure their cage is big enough for two guinea pigs. Especially if you opt for another boar.

4- bare in mind that occasionally bindings can fall out. Though a baby will be easy to introduce now, when he/she reaches the hormone stage then you will likely see the mounting etc start up again as now they are trying to be dominant.

5- don't be tempted to get another guinea pig if you do get another boy. Two boys are fine but trios are always likely to fall out.

Any other questions feel free to ask there is a great thread on bonding I advise you check out that gives more tips.

Thanks for the reply! I've read the whole bonding section now, but I have a minor problem. The only nuetrel area in my house I can use is the bathtub. And I don't believe it's big enough! Not sure what to do because It's either that or the cage, and there's no way I'm putting them in my pig's cage. I'm thinking I'll set up my huge run in the yard with towels under it (we spray out grass) and that might better. How long do they need to stay in the nuetral area?

 

[Jesse's pigs]

Thanks for the reply! I've read the whole bonding section now, but I have a minor problem. The only nuetrel area in my house I can use is the bathtub. And I don't believe it's big enough! Not sure what to do because It's either that or the cage, and there's no way I'm putting them in my pig's cage. I'm thinking I'll set up my huge run in the yard with towels under it (we spray out grass) and that might better. How long do they need to stay in the nuetral area?

Glad it helped!
The grass or bath tub could work I know of other members who have done bonding in the bath but I think the grass might be better personally just gives them more space.

I would say a minimum of 2.5 hours just so you can be sure-but the longer the better. However that being said you will know reasonably quickly if they are going to get along or not.