I've persuaded my boyfriend to change to C&C!

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It's been decided I'm changing to a C&C cage for my piggie boys, as I've realised the cage I have now isn't quite big enough. So this works out quite nicely. It's going to be, 2x4 grids on the bottom and it's going to have a second floor but I haven't decided the size as yet, as big as I can get it I think.

I'm going to base the cage with correx. And seal the edges for the pee pee.

I am also going to keep the bedding I'm using at the moment as it works well for me. Newspaper, towel and then a layer of coloured fleece.

I was sure my boyfriend would say no to a bigger cage as he thinks the one we have is already big haha! Little does he know eh. But we've agreed on changing the set up of the lizard tank (squidge the bearded dragon) to be able to put the guinea pigs where he is.

But now knowing the cage I have is that little bit too small is eating me up, as I want the best for them. I feel terrible that I'm not meeting their needs. I've only had them about a week and a half, but it's not the point. It will be changed by the beginning of next month so it'll only be for a couple of weeks longer.

I will post pictures as the cage is built (a step by step) to help others.

If there are are any tips you guys can suggest to me about the C&C set ups that would be wonderful, for example: How do I attach a ramp to the second level and what material to use..correx?

Also I'd just like to add: Thankyou so much to this forum for enlightening me on so much amazing information. It really is very helpful I'm so happy to be part of this site. If it wasent for you guys my boys wouldn't be getting a new amazing cage to live in.

Lots of love from me Barry and Burt.
 
My two love their c+c cage! I'd say make sure you have plenty of cable ties on hand! My OH made a ramp using a piece of wood cut to size (just make sure it's not too steep) and covered it in carpet for grip. He drilled holes in the top and used cable ties to attach it to the level 2 grids.

I'm looking forward to seeing your pictures! I love seeing everyone's c+c set ups.
 
I'm really excited as we picked up our grids today to do a C&C cage, I plan to have a play/sleep area and a "kitchen area" upstairs with hay, veggies, pellets etc hehe
 
My grids *** be arriving on Monday, happy :) I too are looking at making a kitchen/hay area, if I can! :(|)
 
How exciting! It's amazing how C+C cages have spread across the world in the last 10 years. I made my first one 5 years ago when I first got piggies as a grown up. THey are so cheap to make and very practical. They really give your pigs space to run around and do their own thing.

If you are interested I sell fleece by the metre in aid of piggy rescues. It's very good quality and well worth the initial outlay as if will last for years. The patterns are listed on my website www.cavycozies.com. All prices include postage to the UK.
 
Hi Lorraiine

I'm currently in the middle of doing the same - a C&C cage for the first time. There are a few things they don't tell you in the "how tos"...!

I'm thinking of doing a thread too, but so far I've encountered the following "eh" moments...

1. The connectors - they project into the proposed space by quite some distance. If you were thinking that the correx goes flush with the grids, nope. It leaves either a small gap, or bumps in the floor. To this end, I have dispensed altogether with the connectors, and am going cable-tie only.

2. The grids - the mesh has two different sides - the mesh in my particular grids is welded to the face of one side of the frame, not flush inside. Not a biggie, but worth a mention.

3. If you aren't used to cable-ties, you need the following - strong, sharp scissors or sharp cable cutters. Don't faff about with blunt/weak scissors or a penknife, you'll be there all day. You'll need a lot more ties than you think, and there are going to be moments where your patience threshold is reached!

4. Correx isn't as thick or robust as you'd think. Treat it carefully, don't rest things on it (i.e. sharp objects). To truly seal the box you've made, parcel tape doesn't really cut it. I'm using a safe adhesive and a clothing buckle gun... (!)

5. Correx is sold in huuuge sheets, right? Yep. But don't assume it'll be delivered that way. I was expecting to have to use an estate car to get it home, but it's not as inflexibale as it looks, and rolls up quite small. Mine was delivered in a hexagonal-shaped cardboard box small enough to go in my boot.

So far, so good. But as easy as this link makes it look, http://www.guineapigcages.com/howto.htm it isn't a 5 minute job.

All the best - post lots of pics/thoughts etc when you do it!
 
4. Correx isn't as thick or robust as you'd think. Treat it carefully, don't rest things on it (i.e. sharp objects). To truly seal the box you've made, parcel tape doesn't really cut it. I'm using a safe adhesive and a clothing buckle gun... (!)

Thanks for this - I am about to make a C&C cage too so this is very useful. Can I just ask what adhesive is safe to use on the correx ? And (sorry if I'm being thick) whats a clothing buckle gun ?

x
 
Thanks for this - I am about to make a C&C cage too so this is very useful. Can I just ask what adhesive is safe to use on the correx ? And (sorry if I'm being thick) whats a clothing buckle gun ?

x

I've scrapped the glue idea, I can't find one that isn't either water soluble (PVA) or gives off fumes (any number).

So I'm sticking with the gun. It's basically a bit like a staple gun, only it fires small rivets through things. It's like a hole punch & joiner all in one, but doesn't leave anything sharp or removable like staples.

I've had it years, bit similar to this: http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=RIVETS&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=MR77C&SDesc=Swivel+Head+Riveter

Maybe a bit overkill!
 
Thankyou notfondofcarrots that was very helpful I'll be starting mine in a few days so this all helps hugely!! Xxxxx how far have you got so far? Xx
 
my friend has a c&c cage she used split pins on the correx like these

DSCN0359a.jpg


as long as the buttons are on the inside they work really well with no sharpe edges
 
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