About a week ago my guinea pig silky started having trouble with pushing her poos all the way out for about 4 days we left her to get better by herself but we noticed there was blood in her wee. We started to give her metacam ( a painkiller and anti-inflammatory) this was minutely helping but on Wednesday I started to notice she was struggling on her back legs and by Thursday she was only able to wriggle them when moving. That evening we took her to the vets. They said so long as she is eating and happy there was no need to put her down but if she stopped eating and was in pain we would have to put her down.
The vet told us that the three reasons this may have caused this were: a growth pressing on her nerve, a stroke or that she had twisted herself into an awkward position damaging her spine. At the moment we have separated her into a smaller area of the cage away from our other guinea pig. We have made sure there is nothing for her to snap her feet on for she is struggling to feel her feet.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to improve her quality of life however small it may be we would be very grateful to hear them
Thank you
GuineaPigLover
Hi!
What you need to do with a guinea pigs whose mobility is impacted:
- change the bedding in the area is staying 1-3 times daily to keep it fresh and dry
- gently wash the bum with baby warm water as your guinea pig can't clean their genitalia for itself anymore
Please also check for fly strike (flesh eating maggots) daily as any guinea pigs that struggle to clean themselves are at increased risk, even indoors.
Fly Strike
- check the underside of the feet (foot pads) daily. This includes the weight bearing front legs as guinea pigs that have lost use of their back legs can no longer take the weight off. Bumblefoot (foot infection) is often a secondary complication. Gently soak them in water if poos are stuck to the feet.
Guinea Lynx :: Pododermatitis
Guinea Lynx :: Pododermatitis Links
- place hay, water, pellets and veg very close by and refresh regularly. Weigh daily at the same time (like before their dinner) in order to monitor the food intake. If necessary, top up with support feed.
With my Nerys I only used a spoon for this and not a syringe as usual, so it was entirely up to her how much she was eating - this to prevent falling into the support trap and keeping her going for longer than she would like, especially during the crisis days when it was very touch and go. The moment she would stop eating, I would have had her pts/euthanised during the weeks she was suffering from back leg paralysis issues.
(Nerys is on the right. There is no water bottle as she would be drinking water from a syringe several times a day at this stage. Once she was better and that bit brighter and mobile, she would have one just by the cave.)
As long as guinea pigs is eating, it still has the will and enough quality of life to live.
Complete Syringe Feeding Guide
As to wheelchair support:
Please be aware that this is mostly a showy gimmick!
PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME with any guinea pigs that are not stable/are still deteriorating/are not properly diagnosed (liked yours!). You can very easily make things a lot worse rather than help and cause REAL pain/pressure sores and cramps with some badly done and not professionally adjusted DIY jobby! Especially DO NOT DO IT with a twisted spine/body!
There is one video of a wheelchair piggy making the rounds. What most people don't do know is the conditions this poor piggy was kept in and that it only lived for about 10 days after the video was taken.
It takes A LOT of technical know-how and exact knowledge of the body to fit an animal wheelchair properly. As any amputee how much effort goes into fitting an artificial support properly!