NotFondOfCarrots
Junior Guinea Pig
Hello herd-masters and any reading pigs...!
Tonight, Branston & Pickle moved house from a standard pet shop plastic cage to a luxuriously appointed detached C&C with en suite...
Rather than do a "How To", as I know a few others are planning to do so, I thought I might offer a "Don't Do This" instead.
On another thread I mentioned a few points, I'll recap/expand on them here.
Warning - if you're on fleece, most of this will seem like a load of nonsense...!
1. Correx
I bought mine from Tea Crate Packaging.
This particular thickness is not as robust as you would think; it is easily damaged by sharp objects, heavy items, bending and folding. Treat it with care until it is safely installed.
It is quite easy to cut right through it with a scalpel/craft knife etc when at the scoring phase. Put some thick card underneath, and press very lightly! I can't recommend enough having a timber batten/long ruler for the measuring and scoring part, it will save your patience and make it easier to do this bit in one go. Accuracy is important, it makes the bending/snapping bit easier.
As with any kind of DIY, "measure twice, cut once"...!
It isn't delivered in some vast 8'x4' crate - it's flexibly rolled into a small hexagonal cardboard box small enough for a medium car boot. You don't need an estate or van to shift it.
2. Grids & Connectors
I bought mine from Netto.
These particular grids have the mesh welded to the face of one side of the frame, rather than being flush. If you are a stickler for symmetry/neatness, remember this. It also pays to have them all facing the same way if you abandon connectors as I did, as it aids freedom of movement when cable-tying.
The connectors protrude quite a distance into the proposed space inside the cage. If you were thinking that the correx lies flush with the mesh, it doesn't. It leaves either a small gap all the way round, or bumps in the floor. If you're bothered about this, it's worth thinking about. If you're on fleece, it's not an issue.
To this end, as I'm on shavings, and wanted a flush finish, I dispensed with the connectors entirely, and cable-tied the lot.
3. Joining the corners
I tried parcel tape and didn't like the lack of real solid join... it felt like it could come apart in time. After faffing with various glues (none of which were appropriate for piggies - whiffs, water soluble, etc etc etc) and a clothing rivet gun (not worth the OTT effort, frankly) I simply used Gorrilla Tape (x strong duct tape) and it did the trick (not on the photos to follow btw).
4. Being a bit OTT
If you've read this far and think I'm being a bit OTT/daft, I can completely understand. I just like a nice, solid finish & feel to things - especially when the cage needs to be robust enough to stand up to shavings and cleaning. I can appreciate those on fleece will have given up by now...!
5. Next time
If I make another cage, I will certainly be using much thicker correx. Easier to score, bend, shape and secure. The thin stuff is, IMO, far too flimsy for this. But that's just me.
6. Right, pictures...
Tonight, Branston & Pickle moved house from a standard pet shop plastic cage to a luxuriously appointed detached C&C with en suite...
Rather than do a "How To", as I know a few others are planning to do so, I thought I might offer a "Don't Do This" instead.
On another thread I mentioned a few points, I'll recap/expand on them here.
Warning - if you're on fleece, most of this will seem like a load of nonsense...!
1. Correx
I bought mine from Tea Crate Packaging.
This particular thickness is not as robust as you would think; it is easily damaged by sharp objects, heavy items, bending and folding. Treat it with care until it is safely installed.
It is quite easy to cut right through it with a scalpel/craft knife etc when at the scoring phase. Put some thick card underneath, and press very lightly! I can't recommend enough having a timber batten/long ruler for the measuring and scoring part, it will save your patience and make it easier to do this bit in one go. Accuracy is important, it makes the bending/snapping bit easier.
As with any kind of DIY, "measure twice, cut once"...!
It isn't delivered in some vast 8'x4' crate - it's flexibly rolled into a small hexagonal cardboard box small enough for a medium car boot. You don't need an estate or van to shift it.
2. Grids & Connectors
I bought mine from Netto.
These particular grids have the mesh welded to the face of one side of the frame, rather than being flush. If you are a stickler for symmetry/neatness, remember this. It also pays to have them all facing the same way if you abandon connectors as I did, as it aids freedom of movement when cable-tying.
The connectors protrude quite a distance into the proposed space inside the cage. If you were thinking that the correx lies flush with the mesh, it doesn't. It leaves either a small gap all the way round, or bumps in the floor. If you're bothered about this, it's worth thinking about. If you're on fleece, it's not an issue.
To this end, as I'm on shavings, and wanted a flush finish, I dispensed with the connectors entirely, and cable-tied the lot.
3. Joining the corners
I tried parcel tape and didn't like the lack of real solid join... it felt like it could come apart in time. After faffing with various glues (none of which were appropriate for piggies - whiffs, water soluble, etc etc etc) and a clothing rivet gun (not worth the OTT effort, frankly) I simply used Gorrilla Tape (x strong duct tape) and it did the trick (not on the photos to follow btw).
4. Being a bit OTT
If you've read this far and think I'm being a bit OTT/daft, I can completely understand. I just like a nice, solid finish & feel to things - especially when the cage needs to be robust enough to stand up to shavings and cleaning. I can appreciate those on fleece will have given up by now...!
5. Next time
If I make another cage, I will certainly be using much thicker correx. Easier to score, bend, shape and secure. The thin stuff is, IMO, far too flimsy for this. But that's just me.
6. Right, pictures...