7 weeks old Sows Fighting

L

Laura23

New Born Pup
Joined
Mar 25, 2025
Messages
7
Reaction score
3
Points
35
Location
Liverpool
Hi all,

Would love some advice please.

I have 7 week old sows (bonded).

We have had them for a week exactly today.

I did make a post regarding one of them with missing fur near the eye and scratch marks which couple of people did say looked possibly like the start of ringworm. I did get the affected guinea pig checked by a vet and they said it wasn’t ringworm and checked her over in general looking for other issues. All was ok.

But since then I have noticed some dominance/bullying behaviour. Now the other guinea pig has scratch marks over her nose and what I think is a bite on top of her head which looks quite sore and lumpy ( I only noticed this from today).

I have also now seen with my own eyes one nipping the other when food is around.

What should I do?

Just to note too I clean cage daily removing all poo and replacing hay but I do not change the fleece bedding/blanket until every 2/3 days. I have read cleaning bedding every day can lead to this?

Please any advice welcome as this is the first time looking after guinea pigs. My little girl is distraught they are fighting as she has had me harassed for a couple of years wanting guinea pigs thinking they are cute and cuddly :(

Thank yoj

Laura
 
When piggies move to a new home they go into a period of reestablishing their bond - this happens even if they have always been together - which takes two weeks.
During this time it is Normal to see an increase in dominance. Nipping is a dominance behaviour and a gesture of power. It does not break the skin and is not of concern.
If there was to be actual biting on the other hand is of concern.
Bullying is sustained set of behaviours which goes beyond dominance.

Can you tell us -

- how big is your cage
- do you have multiple of everything in the cage
- do all hides have two exits
- do you scatter feed veg and pellets all around the cage at feed time (recommend method) or use bowls (no longer recommended). Scattering means they can both forage around without getting in each others way

You then need to determine whether this is dominance - and therefore not of concern and in which case you do nothing; or whether they actually don’t get on - in which case sadly it would mean permanent separation.

Bonds In Trouble
 
I have a 120 x 60cm cage which came with a hideout which only has 1 exit. To start with we just had 1 bowl and 1 water bottle, 1 tunnel, 1 ball, various chew toys etc

I gave their dry food in the bowl and then scattered fresh veg around along with scattered piles of hay around the cage.
This weekend I now have 2 bowls and 2 bottles.

Thanks

Laura
 
a 120x60cm is ok but it is considered minimum size for two sows with 150x60cm being a better size for them.
The hideout area which come supplied with commercial cages is not necessarily a good idea - it is a one exit hide and it can be well advised to remove it entirely.
They need two separate hides in the cage, each with two exits. Bendy log bridges work well.

Personally I would do away with both bowls and just scatter the pellets into the hay and around the cage also. It’s excellent mental stimulation for them and equally means there is no issue of food sharing.

Also consider that any change in environment can be disruptive to them particularly while they are still in the first two week re-establishing period, so it’s also possible that moving from cage to run multiple times in the day may also be contributing to a bit of being unsettled.
 
Ah thank you.

It didn’t cross my mind the swapping from cage to run could be upsetting them also :(

Would you suggest to let them settle only in the cage for the next week or so and make some other changes and just observe for now?

My daughter gets them out for cuddles a lot when home from school and this weekend. Could that may be unsettling them also during this 2 week re-settling period?
Thanks

Laura x
 
We normally recommend they are left alone during the first week - obviously fed and cleaned - but otherwise just left to settle in.
From the second week start sitting by their cage and talking to them, offering food from hand etc (which they may or may not take for quite some weeks).
Then starting weekly weight and health checks and a bit of out of cage playtime and handling if you feel they are ready.
Some are ready for handling etc earlier than others so it is something to play by ear.
 
And to add, it would be a good idea to get the scratches and the wound on the head checked by a vet so as to not risk any infection
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top